


.^^ ''^^ 



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JOURNAL 

OF A VOYAGE FROM 

OKKAK, 

ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR, 

TO 

UNGAVA BAY, 

WESTWARD OF CAPE CIIUDLEIGH; 

UNDERTAKEN 

To explore the Coast, and visit the Esquimaux in thai 
unknown Region. 

BY 

BENJAMIN KOHLMEISTER, AND GEORGE KMOCH, 

MISSIONARIES OF THE CHURCH OP THE 

VNITAS FRATR UM or UNITED BRETHREN. 




Honfion: 

Printed by W. M''Dowall, Pemberton Row, Gough Square, Fleet Street, 

FOR THE brethren's SOCIETY FOR THE FURTHERAXCE OF THE 

GOSPEL AMONG THE HEATHEN. 

AND SOLD BY J. LE FEBVRE, 2, CHAPEL-PLACE, NEVILS COURT, FETTER-LANE ; 

L. B. SEELEY, 169, FLEET-STREET; HAZARD AND BINN*, BATH; 

AND T. BULGIN, AND T. LAMBE, BRISTOL. 



1814. 



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JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, 



INTRODUCTION, 



FOR these many years past, a considerable number of 
Esquimaux have been in the annual practice of visiting the 
three missionary establishments of the United Brethren on 
the coast of Labrador, Okkak, Nain, and Hopedale, chiefly 
with a view to barter, or to see those of their friends and ac- 
quaintance, who had become obedient to the gospel, and lived 
together in Christian fellowship, enjoying the instruction of 
the Missionaries. 

These people came mostly from the north, and some of 
them from a great distance. They reported, that the body 
of the Esquimaux nation lived near and beyond Cape Chud- 
leigh, which they call Killinek, and having conceived much 
friendship for the Missionaries, aever failed to request, that 
some of them would come to their country, and even urged 
the formation of a new settlement, considerably to the north 
of Okkak. 

To these repeated and earnest applications the Mission- 
aries were the more disposed to listen, as it had been disco- 
vered, not many years after the establishment of the Mission 
in 1771 5 that that part of the coast on which, by the encou- 
ragement of the British government, the first settlement was 
made, was very thinly inhabited, and that the aim of the 
Mission, to convert the Esquimaux to Christianity^, would b^ 



better obtained^ if access could be had to the main body of 
the Indians, from which the roving inhabitants appeared to 
be mere stragglers. Circumstances, however, prevented 
more extensive plans from being put in execution 5 and the 
Missionaries, having gained the confidence and esteem of 
the Esquimaux in their neighbourhood, remained stationary 
on that coast, and, by degrees, formed three settlements, 
Okkak, to the north, and Hopedale, to the south of Nain, 
their first place of residence. 

In consequence of the abovementioned invitation, it be- 
came a subject of serious consideration, by what means a 
more correct idea of the extent and dwelling-places of the 
Esquimaux nation might be obtained, and a general wish was 
expressed, that one or more of the Missionaries would un- 
dertake the perilous task of visiting such places as were 
reported by the Esquimaux themselves to contain more in- 
habitants than the southern coast, but remained unknown to 
European navigators. 

The Synodal Committee, appointed for the management 
of the Missions of the United Brethren, having given their 
consent to the measure, and agreed ^^ith Brother Kohlmeis- 
ter, by occasion of a visit paid by him to his relations and 
friends in Germany, as to the mode of putting it into execu- 
tion, he returned to Labrador in 1810, and prepared to un- 
dertake the voyage early in the spring of 181 1. 

For several years a correspondence had taken place be- 
tween the Missionaries in Labrador and the Brethren's So- 
ciety for the Furtherance of the Gospel, established in Lon- 
don, relating to the manner in which the voyage should be 
performed. Opinions were various on the subject; but it 
was at length determined, that a steady intelligent Christian 
Esquimaux, possessing a shallop, with two masts, and of 
sufficient dimensions, should be appointed to accompany one 
or two Missionaries, for a liberal recompcncc; and that the 
travellers should spend the winter at Okkak^ to be ready to 



proceed on the voyage, without loss of time, as soon as the 
state of the ice would permit of it. Brother Kohlmeister 
proposed, in this view, the Esquimaux Jonathan, of Hope- 
dale, and the brig employed to convey the annual supply of 
necessaries to the three settlements, was ordered to proceed 
first to Hopedale, partly with a view to this ncgociation. She 
arrived safe with Brother Kohlmeister at this place, on the 
22d July, 1810. On the same day, he proposed to Jonathan 
the intended expedition, laid before him the whole plan, 
with all its difficulties and advantages, and found him im- 
mediately willing to undertake the voyage, and to forward 
its object by every means in his power. 

This was no small sacrifice on the part of Jonathan. An 
Esquimaux is naturally attached to the place of his birth; 
and, though he spends the summer, and indeed great part of 
the year, necessarily, and from inclination, in roving from 
one place to another in quest of food ; yet in winter he set- 
tles, if possible, upon his native spot, where he is esteemed 
and beloved. This was eminently the case with Jonathan. 
He was a man of superior understanding and skill, possessed 
of uncommon presence of mind in difficulties and dangers, 
and at Hopedale considered as the principal person, or chief 
of his nation. But he was now ready to forsake all, and to 
go and reside at Okkak, among strangers, having no autho- 
rity or pre-eminence, and to undertake a voyage of unknown 
length and peril, from whence he could not be sure of a safe^ 
or speedy return, before the ice might set in, and confine 
him upon an unknown shore, during the whole of a second 
winter. There was, however, one consideration which out- 
weighed every other in his mind, and made him, according 
to his own declaration, forget all difficulties and dangers. 
He hoped that the proposed voyage to visit his countrymen 
in the north would, in time, be a means of their becoming 
acquainted with the gospel of Christ, and partakers of the 
same blessings which he now enjoyed. This made him wil- 



ling to accept of the call without any hesitation. Nor did he 
ever, during the whole voyage, forsake that generous princi- 
ple, by which he was at first influenced, but his cheerful, 
firm, and faithful conduct proved, under all circumstan- 
ces, most honourable to the character of a true convert to 
Christianit}^ 

Brother Kohlmeister being, after seventeen years resi- 
dence in Labrador, complete master of the Esquimaux 
language, and deservedly beloved and respected both by 
Christians and heathens, and possessing an invincible zeal 
to promote their temporal and spiritual welfare, was a 
man eminently qualified to undertake the commission, and 
to conciliate the affections of unknown heathen. He had 
also previously made himself acquainted with the use of the 
quadrant, and with other branches of science, useful on such 
an occasion ► 

Brother Kmoch, his companion, joined to other essential 
qualifications, great cheerfulness and intrepidity. 

All the parties having met at Okkak, in the autumn of 
1810, the winter was partly spent in preparations for the 
intended expedition, and Jonathan's boat put into the best 
possible state of repair. 



CHAPTER I. 



Outfit. Ophiions of the Esqizimayix respecting the Voyage, 
Description of the Company, Departure from Okkak, 
Arrival at Nungoromc, 

JUNE IG, ISll. The ice began to loosen in the bay of 
Okkak, and to drive oat to sea. On the 17th, the bay was 
quite cleared of it; but on the 18th, it returned, and seemed 
to preclude all possibility of setting out so soon as we in« 
tended. On the 19th, however, it left us entirely. 



20th. We were employed in hauling the boat to the edge 
of the water, and being floated by the tide, she came to 
anchor at six, P.M. She had been purchased by Jona- 
than, at Chateau-bay, and was about 45 feet long, twelve 
broad, and five deep, with two masts. We had furnished 
her with a complete deck, and divided her into three parts. 
The centre was our own cabin, into which all our baggage 
was stowed : the two other divisions were occupied by the 
Esquimaux. A small boat, brought from Lewis, was taken 
in tow. 

21st. We began to ship our provision and "baggage: viz, 
six cwt. of ship's biscuit, sixteen bushels of pease, one cwt, 
of salt pork and best beef, (of which but a small portion was 
consumed, as we were generally well supplied with fresh 
provisions, procured by shooting), a firkin of butter, half 
cwt. of captain's biscuit, one cwt. of flour, two small bar- 
rels of gunpowder, one cwt. of large and small shot, half 
cwt. of tobacco, two eighteen-gallon baiTcls of ale, a few 
bottles of brandy, eighteen pounds of coffee, which was all 
consumed, coffee and biscuits being our usual repast; a 
case containing knives, wire, nails, &c. for barter, if neces- 
saiy; kettles and other utensils. Besides that every man 
had his fowling-piece, we had four muskets in resers^e. 
After bringing all on boards we had just room enough to 
sleep in our cabin. 

22d, was spent in conferring ^\'ith our l)rethren, on various 
subjects relating to the voyage. 

23 d. All the Esquimaux met at the chapel, and in the 
most affectionate manner, and with many tears, bid us and 
our company farewell. They were the more affected with 
grief on this occasion, as the gi*eatest part of our own Es- 
quimaux thought the vogage impracticable, and expected 
that we should all perish in doubling Cape Chudleigh, 
(Killinek) on account of the violence of the currents, setting 
round bet^veen the cape^ and the many rocks and islands 



8 

which stretch from it towards the iiorth. Reports had Uke- 
wise been circulated of the hostile disposition of the Esqui- 
niaux in the Ungava bay; and it was boldly asserted, that 
if we even got there alive, we should never return. An old 
conjuror, (Angekok), At sugar suk, had been particularly 
active in spreading these reports. We cannot deny but that 
they occasioned some apprehension in our own minds, but 
being fully determined to venture in the name of God, and 
trusting in His protection, we were thankful that they failed 
to produce the intended effect on Jonathan, our guide, and 
on the other Esquimaux, who were to go with us, and who 
all remained firm. 

When Jonathan was told that the Ungava Esquimaux 
would kill him, he generally answered: ^^ Well, we will try, 
" and shall know better when we get there:'* and once, 
conversing with us on the subject, expressed himself thus : 
*' When I hear people talking about the danger of being 
*' killed, I think : Jesus went to death out of love to us, 
" what great matter would it be, if we were to be put to 
'' death in His service, should that be His good pleasure 
'^ concerning us." 

24th. Having commended ourselves in prayer to the grace 
and protecting care of God our Saviour, and to the kind 
remembrance of our dear fellow missionaries, we set sail at 
two P. M. 

Our company consisted of four Esquimaux families: 
1 . Jonathan, and his wife Sj/hilla, both between fifty and 
sixty years old. He was esteemed one of the most skilful 
commanders on the whole coast of Labrador, and for many 
years has shown himself both able and willing to serve the 
missionaries in a variety of Avays. The boat was his own 
property, and we Considered him as the captain of the 
expedition. 2. Jonas, Jonathan's son, and his w'lh Agnes, 
about thirty years of age, both intelligent, clever Esquimaux ; 
they had their five children with them j Sophia, twelve years 



old, Susanna, Jonathan^ Thamar, and SyhiUa, the youngest 
but half a year old. 3. Paul, and his ^\ife Mary, very 
agreeable, sensible people, about twenty years of age. Paul 
is Jonathan's cousin, and a man of a veiy* warm temper. 
In activity and skill, he was next to Jonathan. 4. David, 
and his mother Rachel, the first a hopeful young man oi 
about twenty, and the latter a good-natured old woman, 
who had the care of our clothes and linen, and kept them 
clean and in good order. Besides these four families, we 
took with us a boy, Okkiksuk, an orphan, about sixteen, 
whom Jonathan had adopted, and who promised to reward 
the kindness of his guardian by his good behaviour. He 
was always ready to render us ever}^ service in his power. 

We were attended on the voyage by a skin-boat (or wo- 
man's boat) in which were Thukkekina and his wife, and 
their adopted child Mammak, a boy twelve years old. Their 
age is about forty. The skin-boat was intended as a refuge, 
in case of any accident happening to our own boat, and was 
useful in landing, as we never brought the large boat close 
in shore. The first four families belong to Hopedale, Thuk- 
kekina and his wife to Okkak. Tbey considered it as a great 
favour conferred on them to be permitted to accompany us. 
Jonas and his family occupied the after-part_, and the rest 
the fore-part of the boat. The wind was moderate, and due 
west. We lost sight of our habitations in about half an 
hour, behind the N. E. point of the island Okkak, called 
Sungolik. 

At three, passed Cape Uivak, a cape on the continent, 
forming a moderately high headland, and the nearest place 
to Okkak, where Esquimaux spend the winter. Two or three 
winter-houses were standing. 

The wind failing, we cast off the skin^boat, which rowed 
merrily a-head. Before us, between the islands to the east 
and the continent, we saw much drift-ice, and it required at- 
tention to avoid the large shoals, the wind coming round 

c 



10 

to the N. W. \^'e cast anchor at Nungorome^ a cove about 
ten EngUsh miles from Okkak^ where we found several of 
our Esquimaux, who had here their summer-station . Several 
had come from Naujasiorvik and other places, on purpose to 
meet us, and once more to express their affection and best 
wishes for our safe voyage and return. Late in the evening, 
we met on a green spot, where Brother Kohlmeister delivered 
a short discourse and prayer, after which we retired to sleep 
on board the boat. 



CHAPTER II. 



Departure from N^ungorome Cove. Account of Solo)7io?i, 
Drift-ice, CapeMiigford, Waterfalls from theKaumayoh 
Mountains, Fruitless attempt to get out of the Ikkerasaky 
or Straits, 

NUXGOROME is a cove on the south side of the Island 
Pacharvik. Between this island the main land is a narrow 
strait, so shallow that no whales can pass. The Esquimaux 
stretch their nets across, to catch seals, seeking shelter in it 
when the wind sets in from the open sea. They can only 
be taken in the night, and the greater part of those which fre- 
quent this coast are of the Kairolik kind, a middle-sized ani- 
mal, and of the UgsuL, the largest species of the seal tribe, 
weighing sometimes from five to six cwt. 

The Esquimaux belonging to our congregation, who were 
at present stationed here, in tents, were Moses, Samuel^ 
Thomas, Isaac, Bammiuh, and their families. Solomon, 
who has left our communion, was also here. He had for- 
merly been a communicant member of Okkak congregation, 
but could not resist the temptation of going to the north to 
ii;isf AK "if h th<* heathen Esquimaux, whcjiever they had caught 



11 

a live, or found a dead whale. On such occasions he was se- 
duced to commit many irregularities and sins, but always re- 
turned to us with a show of great contrition and repentance. 
After many relapses, he was informed, that this would do no 
longer, but that if he went again to these heathenish feasts, 
he would be excluded. He is a sensible, well-disposed man, 
and perceived the justice of the sentence ; but his love of 
that species of amusement overcame all his good resolutions. 
He not only went again, but took also another wife; a step 
which, of course, excluded him from our fellowship. Yet 
he is very desirous that his children may receive a Christian 
education, and remain faithful to the precepts of the gospel. 

25th. Brother Kmoch rose at half past one in the morn- 
ing, and suffering the rest to sleep on, got breakfast ready ; 
he then fired his piece, by which Brother Kohlmeister and all 
the Esquimaux, young and old, were suddenly roused from 
their slumbers. Not one, however, regretted the unex- 
pected interruption to their pleasant dreams, on beholding 
the sea quite free from ice, with a fine morning and fair 
wind; but after ya^^ning, stretching, and shaking themselves 
as usual, the Esquimaux ^^'ith great good humour got ready, 
and we set sail at half past three. Passed Pacharvik Island 
at four. Bammiuk and Solomon accompanied us as far as 
the North Ikkerasak (the Esquimaux name for a strait) be- 
tween Cape iMugford Island, in 58° N. latitude, and the 
mountains of Kaumayok. Their being in company retarded 
our progress, but in the sequel proved no disadvantage. 

About nine, we entered the straits, and perceiving at a dis- 
tance much drift-ice a-head, cast anchor, and Brother Kmoch 
and Jonas landed on Cape Mugford Island . An Esquimaux, 
called Niakungetok, accompanied them to the top of an 
eminence, from whence the outer opening of the Ikkerasak 
was seen. They perceived the ice driving into it from the 
sea in such quantities as to threaten to close it up. 

Cape Mugford is an high island, extending far into the 



12 

ocean^ and the northern land-mark in steering for Okkak, 
Kiglapeit promontoiy bearing south^ and the Saddle-island 
appearing right before the entrance of the bay. On their 
return to the boat^ the wind veered to the norths and we 
steered for a dwelling-place of the Esquimaux, about twenty 
miles from Okkak^ called Ukkuararsuk, To our great joy 
the ice began now to drive out again to sea, and we resolved 
to go w^ith it. A gentle S. W. wind brought us to the place, 
where we had before anchored, but we were now beset with 
large fields of ice, among which we tacked, till we had 
nearly cleared the straits, when the great quantity of sur- 
rounding ice, pressing upon us, prevented our making further 
attempts, and we were compelled to work our way back 
with oars and boat-hooks. 

On Cape Mugford island we now discovered more Esqui- 
maux, who by signs directed our course towards a conve- 
nient harbour, near their dwellings, which we reached in 
safety. 

The Esquimaux pitched their tents on shore, but we slept 
on board. 

The situation of this place is remarkably beautiful. The 
strait is about an English mile broad, and four or five in 
length. Both shores are lined with precipitous rocks, which 
in many places rise to a tremendous height, particularly on 
the Kaumayok side, from whence several waterfalls rush 
into the sea, with a roar, which quite fills the air. The 
singular appearance of these cataracts is greatly increased 
when illuminated by the rising sun, the spray exhibiting the 
most beautiful prismatic colours. Below them huge masses 
of ice are formed, which seem to lean against the sides of 
the rocks, and to be continually increasing during the win- 
ter, but when melted by the power of a summer's sun, 
and disengaged by their weight, are earned off by the tides, 
and help to form floating ice-mountains. The coast lies 
S. W. by N. E. 



13 

26th. Being detained here by the state of the ice^ and the 
weather fine and warm^ Brother Kmoch and Ogiksuk rowed 
across the straits to the nearest gi'eat cataract^ and were 
able, notwithstanding the steepness of the ascent, to get 
pretty close to it. It falls fifty or sixty feet perpendicular, 
and the noise is terrible. The spray ascending from it^ 
like the steam of a huge cauldron, wetted the travellers 
completely. They amused themselves some time by rolling 
large stones into the fall, which by its force were carried 
along towards the sea, down the sloping torrent below. 
Our people meanwhile caught three seals, and made a hearty 
meal, of which we also partook, hunger, on this occasion_, 
overcoming our dislike to seal's flesh. A sallad of scurvy- 
grass was made for supper. 

27th. We left this harbour about four A. M. with a favoui- 
able wind at West, but as it soon died away, we took to oiu: 
oars, and reached the north point of Kaumayok, at the 
northern extremity of the strait. By an obseiTation taken 
by Brother Kohlmeister, this point is situated in 57° 59' N. 
latitude. Though calm, there was a great swell from the 
sea, and the rolling of the boat affected our brave captain 
not a little, to the diversion of the other Esquimaux. About 
two P. M. the wind shifted to the N, W. By tacking we 
got to Kupperlik, about the middle of Kaumayok, but having 
the skin-boat in tow, could not weather the point, and were 
at length obliged to return to our former anchorage in the 
strait. 

28th. The wind being North we could not proceed. We 
therefore ascended the mountain of Cape Mugford. It is a 
barren rock, though here and there a solitaiy plant or a tuft 
of moss clings to its steep sides, and is difficult of access. 
The numerous waterfalls on the Kaumayok, which still rose 
above us, were full in view, and we now discovered several 
small lakes which supply them. Some of them fall from a 
great height perpendicularly into the sea. 



14 

"We could here discern the island of Okkak, to the S. W. 
to the East^ the boundless ocean^ and to the N. E. three high^ 
barren, and steep islands, called Nennoktiits by the Esqui- 
maux, (White mountains.) 



CHAPTER III. 

Quit the Ikkerasak, Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, 
and of Kan gerthiJx soak. Public TForship on Sunday, 
Saeglck and its Inhabitants described. The Missionaries 
visit the Esguimau.v at Kikkeriarsoak. 

JUNE 29th. WE rose soon after two o'clock, and rowed out 
of the Ikkerasak, with a fair wind. The sea M^as perfectly 
calm and smooth. Brother Kmoch rowed in the small boat 
along the foot of the mountains of Kaumayok, sometimes 
going on shore, while the large boat was making but little 
way, keeping out at some distance, to avoid the rocks. The 
outline of this chain of mountains exhibits the most fanciful 
figures. At various points, the rocks descend abniptly into 
the sea, presenting horrid precipices. The strand is covered 
with a black sand. At the height of about fifty feet from the 
sea, the rocks have veins of red, yellow, and green stone, 
running horizontally and parallel, and sometimes in an un- 
dulated form. Above these, they present the appearance 
of a magnificent colonadc, or rather of buttresses, supporting 
a gothic building, varying in height and thickness, and here 
and there intersected by wide and deep chasms and glens, 
nmning far inland between the mountains. Loose stones 
above, have in some places the appearance of statues, and the 
superior region exhibits all kind of grotesque shapes. It is 
by far the most singular and picturesque chain of mountains 
on i\i\b. coa^t. To the highest part of it we gave the name 



15 

of St. Paiils^ as it is not unlike that cathedral when viewed 
at a distance, with its dome and two towers. 

Before we left the Kaumayok, Brother Kohimeister landed, 
and found the beach covered with blocks of stone, in colour 
white and grey, like statuary marble, but very hard. We 
now steered for Kojjgertluksoak, a winter-station of the 
Esquimaux, where several of our people had pitched their 
tents. 

At noon, we were off an island, called Eiiigosiarsuk, (the 
Little Cup), opposite the Ittiplek, (a flat piece of ground 
joining two headlands) over which the northern Esquimaux 
pass in sledges to Okkak, round Kaumayok. Farther 
towards the N. W. lies Tiqjpertalik, a high ridge of moun- 
tains, which, from its appearance, we called the Table 
mountain, having nearly the shape of the mountain so called 
at the Cape of Good Hope. 

To the north lies Nellekartok, the outermost island on 
leaving the Ikkerasak, and the first of the Kangertluksoak 
islands. Behind Tuppertalik, a bay opens called Xappartok 
(a wood), a winter-habitation, with a little wood higher up 
the countr\-, about eight or ten hours drive from Okkak. 
A good harbour for large vessels is said to be here, called 
Umiakovitmmak, (Broad boat-harbour). Before the en- 
trance to Nappartok, lies an island, Naujartsit, (the Little 
Sea-gull island) . Seven or eight miles, north of Nappertok, 
a long flat point runs out, terminated by a small island. On 
approaching towards Kangertluksoak, a long island runs 
parallel with the coast called Hiuektalik, (a burial-place), 
between which and the main land is a strait, affording good 
shelter for boats. Into this Jonathan intended to run, but 
the wind being favourable, we kept on our course, and passed 
two islands, Kiiigmiktok, (Dog island), and farther north, 
Kikkertarsoakj a great island which defends the entrance 
into the harbour of Kangertluksoak, from the sea. At ten 
P. M. we came to an anchor in the harbour, and were re- 



16 

celved by our Esquimaux^ of whom several families were 
stationed here, as well as by the other inhabitants, with 
demonstrations of great joy. Both the heathen who kept 
on the right side of the great bay, and our own Christian 
Esquimaux, on the left, fired numberless shots to welcome 
us. Several boats were here from Killinek and Nachvaky 
bound to Okkak. 

Kangerthiksoak lies about sixty miles north of Okkak, 
is an agreeable place, and has a good strand, and safe an- 
chorage. 

30th. Being Sunday, the Missionaries went on shore, and 
visited all the Christian families, by whom they were received 
with the most lively expressions of affection and gratitude. 
Many strangers from the opposite coast had joined them, 
and they all seated themselves in a large circle on the 
grass. 

Nikupsuk's wife, Louisa, who had long ago forsaken the 
believers, was here, and said, with much apparent contrition, 
that she was unworthy to be numbered with them. She 
then seated herself at a little distance from the rest. 

The number of the congregation, inchiding our boat's 
company, amounted to about flftJ^ Brother Kohlmeister 
first addressed them, by greeting them from their brethren 
at Okkak, and expressing our joy at finding them well 
in health, and our hopes, that they were all walking worthy 
of their Christian profession, as a good Example to their 
heathen neighbours. Then the Litany was read, and a spirit 
of tme devotion pervaded the whole assembly. 

Our very hearts rejoiced in this place, which had but 
lately been a den of nmrderers, dedicated, as it were, by 
the angekoks, or sorcerers, to the service of the devil, to 
hear the cheerful voices of converted lieathen, most melo- 
diously sounding forth the praises of God, and giving gloiy 
to the name of Jesus their Redeemer. Peace, and cheer- 
ful countenances dwelt in the t<jnts of the believing Es- 
quimaux. 



17 

Our people had caught a large white-fish, and pressed us 
much to be their guests, which we should have accepted of 
with pleasure, but we thought it prudent to avail ourselves 
of the favourable wind and weather, to proceed. Instead, 
therefore, of dining with them, we presented to each tent a 
quart of pease, which is considered by the Esquimaux as a 
great luxury, and was received with unbounded thank- 
fulness. 

About noon we set sail, with a brisk wind at S. E. for 
Sfieglek. The coast presents here, moderately high, barren 
mountains, without bays or islands. The wind becoming 
more violent, the rope, by which we kept the skin-boat in 
tow, suddenly snapt, and set her adrift. She was frequently 
hid from our view by the height of the waves, but we were 
in no apprehension about her, as these kind of boats are 
much safer in a high sea, than a European one. 

At seven P. M. we arrived at Saegiek, and were saluted 
by the firing of muskets and bonfires on the hills. The Es- 
quimaux have their dwellings on a small flat island, between 
two of larger size, but the strand is bad, and full of sharp 
shingles. There are about five or six winter-houses at 
Saegiek, containing each about two or three families. 

July 1st. Early, two Esquimaux men, Joas and Uiverunnay 
came in their kayaks to pay us a visit. They, with their 
families, inhabited some tents we had seen yesterday. Bro- 
ther Kohlmeister spoke seriously to them on the necessity 
of conversion, especially to Joas, who had Christian parents, 
and as a child, was baptized at Okkak. He reminded him 
of his having been devoted to Jesus from his birth; that he 
therefore ought not to belong to the unbelievers, but to Him 
who had created and redeemed him ; and that the greatest 
of all the sins he now committed, was his persisting in his 
determination not to return. He seemed to listen with 
some humility to the loving and earnest reproof and exhor- 
tations of the Missionaiy, but at last excused himself by 

P 



18 

laying the blame upon his mother^ tvho kept him baclc^ 
adding^ that he still intended to be converted. 

Our people had meanwhile made a fire, and put the pot 
on to boil pease ; but the wind changing, Jonathan deter- 
mined immediately to proceed. The pease had just begun 
to swell, and as the two Esquimaux had presented us with 
some fresh meat, they had been asked to partake of our 
meal; but finding themselves thus disappointed, they fell 
to, and having greedily devoured a quantity of the half- 
boiled pease, and filled their gloves with the rest, they took 
leave, and set sail about 1 1, A. M. 

Hearing from some Esquimaux who made towards us in 
their kayaks, that the Saeglek people were all on the north- 
side of the island of Kikkertarsoak, we proceeded thither, 
and having doubled the point, saw seven tents full of people. 
Two of them contained families from Killinek. But the 
violence of the wind was such, that we could not stay in 
this Unsheltered place with safety. We therefore worked 
our way, with the help of the Esquimaux, round another 
point, into a roadstead, rather more sheltered than the 
former, though open to the sea. A little tobacco is the re- 
ward expected and given for such assistance. 

The beach is composed of numberless black pebbles, polish- 
ed by the sea, and each about the size of an hen's egg. 

Brother Kohlmeister immediately landed, and visited the 
Esquimaux in their tents. Many heathen were at this 
place, to whom he preached the gospel, and invited them to 
believe in Jesus, as the Saviour of men, who would deliver 
them from the love, power, and curse of sin, having shed 
His blood, and died on the cross, to redeem their souls. 
He was heard with great attention. A venerable old man, 
with hair, as white as wool, particularly attracted our no- 
tice. He called Brother Kohlmeister by name, took hold of 
both his hands, and begged him to sit down by him. Brother 
Kohlmeister inquired, whether lie knew him. The old man 



19 

replied: ^^ Thou art Benjamin, often have I heard thy name 
^* at Okkak. I therefore rejoice to see thee." He seemed 
quite at a loss, what way to express his affection ; and at 
length delivered a strap of seals '-leather to Mr. Kohlmeister, 
with these words : "^ I am poor, and have nothing else to 
^' give thee, yet I wish to give thee some token of my love." 
Brother Kohlmeister accepted of his present, and inwardly 
cried to the Lord, to show mercy to this poor ignorant 
heathen. " You are old," said he, ^^ and have not much 
** more time to live in this world, will you not turn to that 
^^ Jesus, who has died for your sins also ? It is not His desire 
^^ that you should perish, and be lost in everlasting dark- 
^^ ness, but that you should live with Him in the place of 
*^ light and immortal bliss." The old man replied : " What 
^^ shall I do ? thy words are veiy pleasant, and I would fain 
^^ hear much more of Jesus. I do not wish to be lost in 
^^ the place of darkness." Brother Kohlmeister answered, 
that if he sincerely wished to be saved, and was troubled on 
account of his sinful life, he should belies e in, and call on 
the name of Jesus, who would certainly hear and reveal 
Himself unto him. Many people werfe present in the tent, 
who behaved with great decency, and whom Brother Kohl- 
meister earnestly addressed on the necessity of conversion. 
He wished to prolong the conversation, especially with the 
old man, who promised, that he would never forget the words 
spoken to him, but it was growing late, and we returned to 
our cabin. The poor old man having sore legs, some me-= 
dicine was left for him. 

The passage from Kangertluksoak to Saeglek is about 
twenty English miles. Saeglek is a considerable promon- 
tory, open to the south. 



20 



CHAPTER IV. 

Departure from Saeglek, Fruitless attempt to reach Nach*- 
vak. Retreat iyito Nullatartok Inlet. Slate Bay, Z><?- 
tention on accoimt of the Ice. Arrive at Nachvak, 

JULY 2d. At one A. M. we set sail^ steering for Nachvak, a 
distance of about thirty miles. Here a chain of mountains 
runs north and south, nearly parallel with the coast. The 
coast itself is of moderate height, but veiy steep, and not 
being defended by any island, the approach to it as a lee* 
shore, is veiy dangerous. It runs generally in a pretty strait 
line about forty miles, when a wide bay opens, in which lies, 
towards the north, an island called Kamgalersiorvik, where 
there is said to be a good harbour for boats. The rocks, of 
which the mountains are composed, are of a white grey 
colour, streaked almost perpendicularly with veins of black 
stone, about two feet broad. The intermediate strata may 
be about eight times as broad. We had hoped to reach 
Nachvak in the morning, by continuing our course through 
the following night, though the wind was weak and variable, 
but in the evening we got into drift-ice : yet as the shoal* 
were not close together, we worked our way through them, 
and stood on with the little wind we had at S. E. 

3d. At dawn of day, and being still four miles distant from 
Nachvak, we perceived both in the open sea, and all along tho 
shore, that our passage was completely occupied with floating 
ice, which drove towards us, and forced us back. We thea 
endeavoured to fmd shelter in a bay bounded by high moun- 
tains, but found none, the wind driving the ice after us into 
it, and soon filling it. Jonathan frequently cried out with i^ 
plaintive voice: "Alas, alas, we shall soon be without a 
" boat ! " We now hastened to the opposite sliore to find some 



21 

cove or inlet^ but getting more and more entangled among 
the ice, were at last obliged, some to land, and haul the 
boat with ropes round the points, and others w^itli boat- 
hooks and spars, to keep her off the rocks. Two or tliree 
times she stuck fast on sunken rocks, but by God's mercy 
always got off again without damage. At length we disco- 
vered three narrow inlets, the middlemost forming a bay, 
being the estuaiy of a river, which runs W, S, W. about 
eight or ten miles up the countr\', and is called NuUatartok, 
Into this we pushed, when shortly after our entrance, the ice 
entirely filled up the passage, and we were compelled to 
retreat to the uppermost part, choosing the shallowest pos- 
sible spot to anchor in. The bay itself is about two miles 
in breadth, and only in the middle deep enough to admit 
the larger fields of drift ice to float into it. The strand is 
broad, and slopes off gently. It is covered with large tables 
of slate. The mountains on each side are high, and seem to 
consist of ferruginous slate, the lamina or plates of which 
are of such immense size, that they might serve for entu"e 
walls. Towards the sea, there exudes from these rocks, a 
yellowish uiiite substance, w^hich has a strong sidphureous 
smell. It was so powerful, that if a drop fell on a piece oi 
tinned iron, it removed the tin in a few minutes. 

The vallies in the neighbourhood were green and full of 
flowers. 

Not far from the spot where we had pitched our tentSj 
(which rested upon a carpet ofpotenfilla aurea, in full bloom, 
bringing to our minds the European meadows, full of butter^ 
cups), the river, w^hich is of considerable breadth, falls into 
the bay. It abounds with fine salmon-trout. Farther to the 
westward, two other rivers flow into it, one of which is much 
broader than the other, and has a large cataract at some dis- 
tance from its mouth. The upper parts of the mountains are 
covered partly with moss, and partly with low brush- wood^ 
birch, and alder, and many berrj--bearing shrubs and plants. 



22 

but no liigli trees. We found here both arnica and Colts-foot 
in great plenty. Brother Kohlmeister gathered and dried a 
quantity of each^ as they are used in medical cases, and the 
former cannot be procured from England. 

The slate is extremely shiveiy^ and is found in slabs, ei- 
ther lying or standing upright, from four to eight feet square, 
most easily splitting into thin plates. Ascending the moun- 
tain, they are soon dislodged, by the tread of a man's foot, 
and glide down towards the beach with a rattling, tinkling 
noise. At low water, we noticed a bed of stone resembling 
cast iron, of a reddish hue, and polished by the friction of 
the water. After supping on salmon-trout, caught in the 
first-mentioned river, w^e retired to rest ; but had some fears 
even here for the safety of our boat, the ice pushing in to- 
wards us, and our people being employed day and night in 
warding off the large shoals with their boat-hooks. 

4th. The weather being fair, Brother Kmoch ascended to 
the top of the highest part of the mountain near us, from 
whence he could see nothing but drift-ice, powerfully in mo- 
tion towards the bay. Four of our Esquimaux went up the 
countiy to hunt reindeer; saw eight head and two fawns, 
but got none. 

Perceiving that our abode in this place might be of some 
duration, we for the first time pitched our tents on shore. 
Our morning and evening devotion was attended by the whole 
party; and on Sundays we read the Litany, and conducted 
the service in the usual way, which proved to us and our 
Esquimaux of great comfort and encouragement in all diffi- 
culties. We were detained here, by the ice, from the 3d to 
the loth, and our faith and patience were frequently put 
to the trial. Meanwhile we found much pleasure in walking 
up the declivities of the hills, and into the fine green and 
flo^A'ciy vallies around us. 

5th. We went up the western extremity of the bay, but 
found nothing worth notice. Here the rocks appeared to bo 
of a species of freestone. 



25 

6th. In the evening we met in Jonathan's tent. Brothef 
Kohlmeister addressed the company^ and reminded them^ 
that to-day the holy communion would be celebrated in our 
congregations, which we could not do in this place^ under 
present circumstances. Then kneeling down, he offered up 
a fervent prayer, entreating the Lord not to forget us in this 
wilderness, but to give us to feel His all-reviving presence, 
and to feed our hungry and thirsty souls, out of the fulness 
of His grace. A comfortable sense of His love and peace fil- 
led all our hearts on this occasion. 

In the evening, Paul began to read out of the Harmony 
of the four Evangelists, which we shall continue as often as 
circumstances will admit of it. Jonathan and Jonas gene- 
rally conduct the daily morning and evening worship. 

7th. We were so hard pressed by the ice driving towards 
us, that \^'e were obliged in part to unload the boat, to be 
able to bring it into a safer situation in shallow water; and 
took our turns, three relieving three, to w^atch and guard off 
the larger shoals with boat-hooks, by day and night. We 
were glad to have reached a place, sheltered on all sides from 
the wind, 

8th. Our people went out to look for reindeer, and no 
prospect of our proceeding to sea appearing, they resolved 
to stay out all night. 

9th. Jonas returned and reported, that they had seen 
reindeer, but were not able to shoot any. Paul and Thuk- 
kekina went to day to the western mountains, and staid over 
night. 

10th. Brother Kmoch went to the westward to look for 
birds. He saw a large flight of sea-fowl, but they were ex- 
tremely shy, and would not permit him to get near them. 
Prom the hills around us, w^e perceived that the entrance into 
the bay was completely blocked up with ice; and towards the 
sea, nothing but one continued field of ice appeared. We 
sighed and prayed to the Lord to help us in this time of need. 



24 

Jonas went out in his kayak, and shot an ugsuk, not far from 
our tent. Towards evening, we saw a fire made by our 
reindeer-hunters, at the western extremity of the bay, and 
they fired their pieces to give us notice, that they had got some 
game, and that we should fetch it with the small boat. 

Okkiksuk therefore went, and found them completely over- 
come with fatigue, -having dragged their game across the 
mountaiiTiS for a considerable distance. The Esquimaux are 
indeed able to carry burdens up and down hill, under which 
most Europeans would sink, but when they kill a deer far 
inland, it is hard-earned food, by the trouble of cariying it 
home. Paul had shot two reindeer, of which we received a 
portion. Brother Kohhneister had been on the other side 
of the bay, and returned with a large parcel of plants and 
lloAvers, the examination of which afforded him much a- 
jnusemeut. 

llie Esquimaux now boiled a large kettle full of seaFs 
flesh, of which we were invited to partake. This we did, 
and thought it a very palatable mess, particularly as we had 
tasted no fresh meat since we had left the North Ikkerasak. 
The prejudice of the Europeans against seal's flesh, consists 
mostly in imagination. The dirty kettle in which the Es- 
quimaux boil it, is indeed not calculated to excite an appe- 
tite, but the meat, when eaten fresh, tastes much like beef; 
\vhen cold, it acquires an oily taste -, nor durst a person, not 
accustomed to it from his childhood, make a practice of eat- 
ing it, as it is of a veiy heating nature, and would soon bring 
on serious disorders. It generally prevents sleep, if eaten at 
supper. 

12th. The wind became \^^est, and cleared the bay of the 
ice. Brother Kmoch and Jonathan went to the opposite shore 
and found winter-houses, one of which had been inhabited 
last winter ; two others were in ruins. They climbed the 
highest eminence towards Nachvak, but saw nothing but 
drift-ice, covering the sea, witli but few spots of open water 
to the north. 



25 

13th. It blew hard from the West. David and Okkiksuk 
Crossed the bay to explore the state of the ice from the hills. 
In the evening they returned with intelligence, that the sea 
was cleared of ice to the northward, David had caught a 
netsek, (a small species of seal), and we had taken a good 
draught of trout in the net before our tent. 

14th. Jonathan roused us at four in the morning, the 
wind being in our favour, and we immediately made prepa- 
rations to depart. After breakfast, as we were praying the 
Litany, a sudden storm arose. We were assembled in Jo- 
nathan's tent, and the stones and pegs, with AA^hich it had 
been fastened down to the ground, being already removed, 
the tent-skins were soon blown about our heads by the vio- 
lence of the wind, and we were now obliged patiently to 
wait till the storm abated. In the midst of our delibera- 
tions, accompanied with expressions of our disappointment, 
Thukkekina gravely observed, that we might very likely get 
away this summer, and need not be dismayed. Towards 
evening, it fell calm, and the musquitoes teazed us un- 
mercifully. We supped on fresh salmon, filled our tents 
with smoke, to keep off our winged tormentors, shut our- 
selves in, and forgot our grievances and Thukkekina's 
consolations in sound sleep. 

loth. In the morning at three o'clock, we took a final 
leave of Nullatartok bay, and got under way Avith a favour- 
able, though rather boisterous wind at S.W. having been 
detained here for twelve days by the ice. i^fter about an 
hour's sail, we were near the entrance of the inlet, when a 
sudden gust from the mountains carried away our after-top- 
mast, with sail and tackle. It fell with great noise on the 
deck, and into the sea. By God's mercy no one was hurt^ 
and we were more particularly thankful, that of the five 
children on board, none were just then on deck. 

It once happened, that the main-yard fell down, and but 
narrowly missed striking two children, w^ho with a third 

£ 



26 

were sitting and playing together. They must inevitably 
have lost their lives, had it fallen upon them. We praised 
God for their preservation during the vi^hole voyage. By the 
above-mentioned disaster, we were obliged to run into a 
small cove, where we repaired the mast with all speed, and 
proceeded with a gentle wind towards Nachvak, A calm 
ensued, and as there is no anchorage between Nullatartok 
and Nachvak, we rowed all night, and felt the advantage of 
the great length of days, at this season of the year. 

16th. The view we had of the magnificent mountains of 
Nachvak, especially about sun-rise, afforded us and our Es- 
quimaux great gratification. Their south-east extremity 
much resembles Saddle island near Okkak, being high, 
steep, and of singular shape. These mountains in gene 
ral are not unlike those of Kaumayok for picturesque out- 
line. In one place, tremendous precipices form a vast am- 
phitheatre, sm'mounted by a ledge of green sod, which 
seemed to be the resort of an immense number of sea-gulls 
and other fowls, never interrupted by the intrusion of man. 
They flew with loud screams backwards and forwards over 
our heads, as if to warn off such unwelcome visitors. In 
another place, a narrow chasm opens into the mountain, 
widening into a lagoon, the surrounding rocks resembling 
the ruins of a large Gothic building, with the green ocean 
for its pavement, and the sky for its dome. The weather 
being fine, and the sun cheering us with his bright rays, af- 
ter a cold and sleepless night, we seemed to acquire new vi- 
gour, by the contemplation of the grand features of nature 
around us. We now perceived son:ie Esquimaux with a wo- 
man's boat, in a small bay, preparing to steer for Nachvak. 
They fired their pieces, and called to us to join them, as they 
had discovered a stranded whale. Going on shore to survey 
the remains of this huge animal, we found it by no means a 
pleasant sight. It lay upon the rocks, occupying a space 
about thirty feet in diameter, but was much shattered^ and 



27 

in a decaying state. Our people, however, cut off a quantity 
of blubber from its lips. The greater part of the blubber of 
this fish was lost, as the Esquimaux had no means of con- 
veying it to Okkak. 

The Esquimaux stationed here showed great willingness 
to assist us ; and as our party was much fatigued Avith row- 
ing all night, they towed us into Nachvak, where we amved 
about 2 P. M. Old Kayaluk and a young man, Parngima, 
and his wife, were here. The latter called on Brother Kohl- 
meister, and thanked him for having saved her life. He had 
forgotten that he had once given her medicine at Okkak in a 
dangerous illness, but her gratitude was still unbounded. 



CHAPTER V. 



Reception at Nachvak. Description of the bay. The Esqid^ 
inaux manner of spearing salmon and trout. Christian de- 
portmefit of the Okkak and Hopedale Esquimaux, JTonas's 
address to the Heathen, Love of music general among these 
Lidians. Departure from Nachvak, Danger in doubling 
the North Cape, ^Irrival at Sangmif/ok bay, 

JULY 16th After two or three honrs sleep in our cabin, 

we went on shore. The Esquimaux, who had here a tem- 
porary station, about fifty in number, received us with 
every mark of attention. Loud shouts of joy resounded from 
all quarters, and muskets were fired in eveiy direction. They 
could scarcely wait with patience for our landing, and when 
we pitched our tent, were all eager to assist; thus we were 
soon at home anK)ng them. Seven tents were standing on 
the strand, and we found the people here differing much in 
their manners from the people at Saeglek. Their behaviour 
was modest and rather bashful, nor were we assailed b^' beg- ' 



28 

gars and importunate intruders, as at the latter place, where 
beggary seemed quite the fashion, and proved veiy trouble- 
some to us. But we had no instance of stealing. Thieves 
are considered by the Esquimaux in general with abhorrence, 
and with a thief no one is willing to trade. We have disco- 
vered, however, that that propensity is not altogether want- 
ing in the northern Esquimaux, who, now and then, if they 
think that they can do it ^.vithout detection, will make a little 
free with their neighbour's property. 

The Esquimaux not only gave us a most hearty welcome, 
but attended our morning and evening prayers with great 
silence and apparent devotion. Indeed, to our great surprise, 
they behaved altogether with uncommon decorum and regu • 
larity during our stay, 

17th. Being detained with drift-ice at the mouth of the 
bay, we pitched our tent on shore. We examined the bay 
more minutely. It extends to the West to a considerable 
depth, and is not protected by any islands, except a few 
rocks, at some distance in the sea. The surrounding moun- 
tains are very high, steep, and barren, and verdure is found 
only in the vallies. Here the arnica monfana^ which the 
jMissionaries have found of great use among the Esquimaux, 
grows in great abundance. Salmon-trout are caught in eve- 
ry creek and inlet. 

Like the salmon, they remain in the rivers and fresh-water 
lakes daring the winter, and return to the sea in spring. 
The Esquimaux about Okkak and Saeglek, catch them in 
winter under the ice by spearing. For this purpose, they 
make two holes in the ice, about eight inches in diameter, 
and six feet asunder, in a direction from north to south. The 
northern hole they screen from the sun, by a bank of snow 
about four feet in heiglit, raised in a semicircle round its 
southern edge, and form another similar bank on the north- 
side of the southern hole, sloped in such a manner as to re- 
flect tlie rays of the sun into it. The Esquimaux then licai 



29 

down, with liis face close to the northern aperture, beneath 
which the water is strongly illuminated by the sunbeams en- 
tering at the southern. In his left hand he holds a red stringy 
with which he plays in the water, to allure the fish, and in 
his right a spear, ready to strike them as they approach. In 
this manner they soon take as many as they want. 

The salmon-trout on this coast are from twelve to eigh- 
teen inches long, and in iVugust and September so fat, that 
the Esquimaux collect from them a sufficient quantity of oil 
for their lamps. The immense abundance of these fish on 
all parts of the coast, would almost at any time save the Es- 
quimaux from starving with hunger; but as seals furnish 
them both with food and clothing, it is of most consequence 
to them to attend to this branch of supply. At Hopedale and 
Nain, however, salmon-trout are caught only in the summer. 
We were much pleased with the behaviour of our own Es- 
quimaux, , during their stay at Nachvak. In every respect 
they conducted themselves, in word and deed, as true Chris- 
tian people. Their conversation with their heathen coun- 
tiymen, was free and unreserved, and ^^ to the use of edi- 
'^ fying." Jonathan and Jonas in particular, gave us great 
satisfaction. 

The people having assembled in Jonathan's tent, those 
who had no room in it, standing without and listening with 
great order and stillness. Brother Kohlmeister addressed 
them^ explaining the aim of our voyage 3 that we w^ere go- 
ing, out of love to their nation, to the northern Esquimaux, 
and to those of Ungava bay, to make known to them the 
love of God our Saviour; and, by the gospel, to point out to 
them the way to obtain life everlasting. We knew that they 
were heathen, who, being ignorant of the way to God, were 
in bondage to the devil, and would be lost for ever, unless 
God had mercy upon them and sent them his word, to lead 
them to Jesus Christ their only Saviour, who shed His biood_, 
and died on the cross to redeem their souls. 



so 

They received the discourses aiid exhortations of the Mis- 
sionary with reverential attention, l^ut those of their own 
countr\Tiien;, with still gTeater eagerness, and we hope not 
without benefit, Jonas once addressed them thus : '^ We 
^' were but lately as ignorant as you are now : we were long 
^' unable to understand the comfortable words of tlie gospel : 
^^ we had neither ears to hear, nor hearts to receive them, till 
^^ Jesus, by his |X)wer^ opened our hearts and ears. Now 
*'^ we know what Jesus has done for us^ and how great the 
^^ happiness of those souls is, who come unto Him, love 
" Hiin as their Saviour, and know, that they shall not be 
^ lost, when this life is past. Without this we live in con- 
^* stant fear of death. You will enjoy the same happiness, 
^' if you turn to and believe in Jesus. We are not surprised 
^' that you do not yet understand us. We were once like 
*^ you^ but now thank Jesus our Redeemer, Avith tears of 
^' joy, that He has revealed Himself unto us.'* Thus, with 
cheerful countenances and great energy^ did these Christian 
Esquimaux praise and glorify the name of Christ our Savi- 
our, and declare, what he had done for their souls, exhort- 
ing the heathen likcA^dse to believe. 

The above address seemed to make a deep impression on 
the minds of all present. One of their leaders, or captains, 
exclaimed with great eagerness, in presence of them all : 
**^ I am determined to be converted to Jesus.*' His name 
is Onalik. He afterwards called upon Brother Kohlmeister, 
and inquired, whether it was the same, to which of the three 
settlements he removed, as it was his firm determination to 
become a true believer. Brother Kohlmeister answered; 
*^ That it was indifferent where he lived, if he wei'C only 
*^ converted and became a child of God, and an heir of hfe 
'^ eternal/'' Another, named Tallngaksoak, made the same 
declaration, and added : ^* That he would no longer live 
** among the heathen." 

Though the very fickle disposition oi the heathen Esqui« 



SI 

niaux, might cause some doubts to arise in om* minds, as to 
their putting tliese good resolutions into practice, yet we 
iiope, that the seed of the word of (lod, sown in this pla<^^ 
may not have altogether fallen upon barren gi'ound. 

In the evening, our people met in Jonathan's tent, and 
sang hymns . Almost all the inh^itants were present Thej 
afterwards spent a long time in pleasant and edifying con- 
versation. It may here be obsen-ed, that the Esquimaux 
delight in singing and music. As to national songs, tiiey 
have nothing deserving of that name ; and tiie vai'ious col-- 
lectors of these precious morsels in our day, would find their 
labour lost in endeavourmg to harmonize the mcantations 
of their sorcerers and witches, which more re^mble the 
bowlings of wolves and gix)wlings of bears, than any tiaiig- 
human. But though the hymn and psalm-times of the Bre- 
thren's Church are mostly of antient constiiiction, and, 
though rich in harmony, have no aiiy melodies to amke 
them easily understood by unmusical ears, yet the Esqui- 
maux soon leani to sing them correctly ; and the voices of 
the women are remarkably sweet and well-tuned. Brother 
Kohlmeister having given one of the children a toy- flute, 
Paul took it, and immediately picked out the proper stops^ 
in playing several psalm-tunes upon it, as well as the im- 
perfect state of the instrument would admit. Brother Kmoch 
having taken a violin with him, the same Esquimaux like- 
wise took it up, and it was not long before he found out tl^e 
manner of producing the different notes. 

18th. At 8 A.M. Brother Kohlmeister having delivered a 
farewell-discourse to the Esquimaux, (during which tl^* 
were much affected) , we took leave of these goodnatured peo- 
pie, and set sail with a fair and strong West-wind, but met 
with much drift-ice at the entrance of the bay. It made less 
way than our boat, and the wind becoming more violent, we 
found ourselves in an unpleasant situation. After tack- 
ing all day, and a gi*eat part of the night, the ice preventing 



32 

our proceeding, and the wind^ our returning to our former 
station, we were obliged to make for tlie Eastern point of 
the bay, where we at length succeeded in gaining a small 
cove, and cast anchor. 

Our situation was singular ; the rocks rose in a semicircle 
around us, towering perpendicularly to an amazing height, 
like an immense wall. 

After a few hours stay, two Nachvak Esquimaux joined 
us, and prevailed on Jonathan to return to the tents, but we 
had scarcely reached the centre of the bay, before the vio- 
lence of the wind drove us out to sea, and we were compel- 
led to push for the northern promontory, from which all the 
ice had now retreated. Under the mountains we found 
shelter from the wind, which had by this time risen to a 
storm. It was late, and as it appeared dangerous to remain 
here, we rowed towards the point, but there beheld, with 
terror, the raging of the sea and dashing of the waves against 
the rocks, the spray flying like clouds into the air, and re- 
turned into smooth water, where, however, we were long in 
finding a place to anchor in. The night was spent quietly 
under shelter of the high rocks. They form the base of 
mountains higher than the Kiglapeyd, rise perpendicularly, 
in some places impending, with fragments, apparently loose, 
hanging over their edge, and forming all kinds of grotesque 
figures. 

19th. At sun-rise we still saw and heard the storm which 
threatened us with destruction, if we ventured to double the 
cape. 

At nine the wind abated, and we set sail, got safe round 
the point, and glided, with a gentle wind, into a broad, 
shallow bay, called Sangmiyok, full both of hidden and visi- 
ble rocks, in which we cast anchor about five P. M. AVhile 
Brother Kmoch superintended the concerns of the kitchen, 
Brother Kohlmeister and Jonathan went on shore, and to 
the highest mountain on the prompntory. From the top of 



33 

this mountain they could plainly discern the four principal 
headlands between Cape Mugford and Cape Chudleigh. The 
former situated in latitude 58° N. the latter in 61°. Be- 
tween these are four promontories^ in a line from S. E. to 
N. W. The first is Uivak^ at the entrance into Saeglek Bay, 
outside of which a small island lies, in form of a pyramid or 
sugar-loaf. Next follow the two forming Nachvak Bay, 
another Uivak to the south of Nennoktok, upon which we 
stood. The fourth is Kakkeviak, not far from Killinek, or 
Cape Chudleigh, in form of a tent, called in the charts 
Blackhead. Neiinoktok is called False Blackhead, 



CHAPTER VI. 

Bass Cape Nennoktok. Visit the Esquimaux families at 
Kummaktomk and Arnitok. Description of a7i Esqui- 
maux travelli7ig bed. Mountains seen at Ungava. Net- 
sek seal described. Greeiilaiid houses. Danger of being 
shipwrecked near Kakkeviak, 

JULY 20th ^VVe proceeded with little or no wind, and taking 

to our oars, doubled the gi'eat Cape of Nennoktok. Here a 
strong swell from the sea met us, and tossed our boat vio- 
lently about, and, having no wind, it drove us nearer to the 
shore than was perfectly safe. We remained about an hour 
in this unpleasant situation, when a breeze sprung up, w^hich 
carried us out to the open sea among islands. It now began 
to rain very hard, and the wand rose. While Brother Kmoch 
was assisting the people on deck. Brother Kohlmeister had 
enough to do below, to keejJ peace among the furniture of 
our cabin, and sometimes found himself defeated in his at- 
tempts, pots and pans, and boxes, and eveiy thing that was 
not a fixture, tumbling upon him. Several of our people 

F 



34 

were in the skin-boat, and the fmy of the wind and sea 
would not permit them to come to our assistance. The 
weather also became so thick and foggy between the islands, 
that we were unable to see to any distance. Jonathan was 
therefore glad to have been yesterday on shore, when from 
the mountain he discovered the situation of the promontory, 
the coast, and the islands before us, and now contrived to 
steer in the proper direction. We soon found ourselves in 
smoother water, and among islands, where a vast number of 
seals and birds made their appearance. At six in the evening 
we reached Kummaktorvik, and came to an anchor. 

Having landed. Brother Kmoch shot a hare, close to the 
beach. These creatures are white in winter, and grey in 
summer, and in winter so numerous, that though, when, 
roasted, they are excellent food, we were almost tired of 
them last year at Okkak, 

The rain continuing during the whole of the night and 
forenoon of the 2 1st, we found it necessary by sufficient rest. 
to strengthen ourselves for future watchfulness. 

An Esquimaux travelling bed consists of a large bag of 
reindeer-skin, with the hair turned inward, covered with 
seal -skin, the hair turned outward. It is furnished with a 
broad flap to cover the mouth, and a strap to fasten down 
the flap. This bag comprehends the whole apparatus and 
furniture of an Esquimaux bed-room. Having undressed, 
the traveller creeps into it, and a kind neighbour having shut 
him up close by fastening the strap, he leaves him to sleep 
On till morning, when he helps him out again. In summer 
the flap is dispensed with. The invention, however, is of 
European origin, and a luxury introduced by the Mission- 
aries; for an Esquimaux lies down in his clothes, without 
fxu'ther preparation. 

In the morning we landed, and had the usual Sunday's 
service with our people on stiore; after which Bix)ther Kohl- 
meister visited the Esquimaux in their tents, and had some 



35 

religious conversation with them, to which they seemed to 
pay attention. Afterwards Kuttaktok, John, Nukkapiak, 
and Kajuhk, with their wives, came to see us on board. 
They are the winter inhabitants of this bay. John was bap- 
tized in infancy at Okkak, but afterwards left the settlement, 
and not only associates with the heathen Esquimaux, but 
has even been guilty of murder. All of them, however, come 
occasionally to Okkak. They had two tents about four miles 
from our landing-place. 

22d. The contrary wind forbidding our departure. Brother 
Kohlmeister, accompanied by Jonathan, Jonas, and Thuk- 
kekina, walked across the countiy to the N. W. bay, to re- 
turn their visit. When they saw them coming at a distance, 
they fired their pieces, to direct them to the tents, and came 
joyfully to meet the Missionary and his party. Nothing 
could exceed the cordiality with which they received them. 
A kettle was immediately put on the fire to cook salmon- 
trout, and all were invited to partake, which was the more 
readily accepted, as the length of the walk had created an 
appetite, the keenness of which overcame all squeamishness. 
To do these good people justice, their kettle was rather 
cleaner than usual, the dogs having licked it well, and the 
fish were fi-esh and well dressed. To honour the Mission- 
aiy, a box w^as placed for him to sit upon, and the fish were 
served up to each upon a flat stone instead of a plate. After 
dinner. Brother Kohlmeister, in acknowledgment for their 
civility, gave to each of the women two needles, and a small 
portion of tobacco to each man, with which they were highly 
delighted. 

All of them being seated, a very lively and unreserved 
conversation took place concerning the only way of salva- 
tion, through Jesus Christ, and the necessity of conversion. 
With John and his mother Mary, Brother Kohlmeister spoke 
very seriously, and represented to them the danger of their 
state, as apostates from the faith ; but they seem blinded 



36 

by Satan, and determined to persist in their heathenish 
life. The Esquimaux now ojfFered to convey the party across 
the bay in their skin-boat^ which was accepted. Almost all 
of them accompanied the boat^ and met with a very friendly 
reception from our boat's company. In the evening, after 
some hymns had been sung by our people, Jonas addressed 
them and the heathen Esquimaux in a short, nervous dis- 
course, on the blessedness of being reconciled unto God, 

Kummaktomk bay runs N. E. and S. W. and is defended 
by some islands from the sea. It is about four or five miles 
long, and surrounded by high mountains, with some pleasant 
plains at their foot, covered with verdure. It's distance from 
Nachvak is about twelve miles. This chain of mountains, 
as will be hereafter mentioned, may be seen from Kangert- 
lualuksoak, in Ungava Bay, which is a collateral proof, that 
the neck of land, terminated to the N . by Cape Chudleigh, 
is of no great width. Both the Nain and Okkak Esquimaux 
frequently penetrate far enough inland to find the rivers 
taking a westerly direction, consequently towards the Ungava 
country. They even now and then have reached the woods 
skirting the estuaries of George and South rivers. 

23d. We set sail at sun-rise, but the wind being too high 
to suffer us to proceed with safety, we again anchored in a 
commodious harbour in Amitok island. Our people were 
here busily employed in repairing the damaged rigging and 
sails. Towards evening Jonas caught a seal, to the great 
gratification of our party. It was dressed immediately, and 
we joined them in their repast with a good appetite. 

The Netsek is the only species of seal which remains 
during the winter under the ice. They form in it large 
caverns, in which they bring forth their young, two at a time, 
in March, More than one cavern belongs to one seal, 
that he may, if disturbed in the first, take shelter in the 
second. No other kind of seal is caught in winter by the 
Esquimaux. 



57 

24th. Brother Kmoch rose at two^ and went on shore to 
examine the island more minutely. The morning Avas 
beautiful^ and the sun rose with great splendour. Amitok 
lies N. W. from Kummaktorvik^ is of an oblong shape, and 
stretches out pretty far towards the sea. The hills are of 
moderate height, the land is in many places flat, but in ge- 
neral destitute of grass. On the other side are some ruins 
of Greenland houses. 

The Esquimaux have a tradition, that the Greenlanders 
came originally from Canada, and settled on the outermost 
islands of this coast, but never penetrated into the coimtry, 
before they were driven eastward to Greenland. This report 
gains some credit, from the state in which the abovemen- 
tioned ruins are found. They consist in remains of walls 
and graves, mth a low stone enclosure round the tomb, 
co-vcred with a slab of the same material. They have been 
discovered on islands near Nain, and though sparingly, all 
along the whole eastern coast, but we saw none in Unga\'^ 
bay. The rocks on Amitok contain large masses of a crum- 
bly, semi-transparent garnet, of a reddish hue. (From 
some specimens sent out, it rather appears to be a rose-red 
quartz, or beiyllite). 

As it appeared as if we should be detained here. Brother 
Kmoch had made a fire, and was leisurely cooking a savoury 
mess of birds for breakfast, when Jonathan returned from 
the hills, with intelligence that the wind was abating in 
violence, and he therefore w^ould proceed. The tent was 
struck, and all huiTied on board ; yet we had long to combat 
both an unfavourable wind and a strong current, which 
compelled us to double the East point of the island, and 
seek shelter among some small islands, steering ioYNiakimgu 
point. From hence we got the first sight of Tikkerarsuky 
(the Esquimaux name for a low point stretching from the 
continent into the sea), of the island Aulatzevik^ and the 
high promontory of Kakkeviak, The whole country to 



38 

the west of Niakungu is called Serliarutsit , It fell calm 
as we doubled the pointy and we took to our oars, and came 
to an anchor in an open bay, south of Tikkerarsuk. 

25th. At 6 P. M. we got under weigh with a fine S, E. 
wind^ and made for the island of Aulatzeviky which is about 
the same size as an island of the same name, near Kig- 
lape}'d. The passage between the island and the main is 
too shallow for an European boat like ours. The wind 
rising we sailed towaixls Kakke^-iak at a gi'cat rate. To the 
right lay a chain of small islands called by the Esquimaux 
Pikkiulits, (the habitation of young eider-ducks). Having 
nearly doubled Kahkeviak cape, we perceived two tents on 
shore, which occasioned loud rejoicings on board. They 
belonged to Kumiganna of Saegleky with his party, who 
being bound to Killinek, had promised to accompany us 
thither. The wind was very high, and the Cape encircled 
with numerous visible and invisible rocks, but there was a 
clear passage to the shore, keeping outside of the breakers. 
But whether from the violence of the wind, or from the 
eagerness with which our trusty captain wished soon to join 
Ms countrymen, he steered right through the midst of them, 
when suddenly the boat struck with great violence upon a 
sunken rock. The shock was so great, that all on board 
were thrown down, and ever}^ thing tumbled about. Poor 
Agnes, Jonas's wife, got a severe wound in her head. We 
immediately took in all our sails, and after hard labour, suc- 
ceeded in pushing the boat off the rock. On examination 
we found that all was safe, and thanked God, with hearts 
filled with humble acknowledgments of His mercy, for 
preserving us from danger and death. The boat had stnick 
in such a manner, that the keel, which was new and strong, 
being constructed of one solid piece of timber, sustained the 
whole shock. Had she taken the rock with her bottom, she 
would most likely have bilged, or upset, and it is a great 
question, whether our Uves, but particularly the lives of the 



39 

little children, could have been saved, the sea nmning very 
high. The skin- boat was thro^\^i right over the rocks on 
shore, by the violence of the surf. 

Kumiganna soon caine off in his kayak, and advised us to 
steer for the land right before us, where he thought we 
should find Uttakiyok ; nor was there any safe anchorage in 
this place. We therefore took a young Esquimaux on board 
as pilot, and steered between the main land and the idands, 
for Oppemavik, twenty English miles ofE Having left the 
skin-boat to follow us, we cut swiftly through the water, 
and soon reached the place of our destination. 



CHAPTER VIL 

Arrival at Oppemavik, Account of Uttakiyok, HiS perse- 
verance in ivaiting^ for the arrival of the Missionm'ies. 
Islands and hays between Kakkeviak and KilUnek^ Dan^ 
ger iti the ice at Ammitok, Want of fuel supplied htf. 
robbing old graves, 

WHEN we arrived at Oppemavik, we found Uttakiyok^ 
with his two wives and youngest brother, waiting to receive 
us. He and his family are from the Ungava bay, and had 
been upon the watch in this place during the whole spring. 
They welcomed us with shouts of joy, and firing of their 
pieces, and we had indeed the gi-eatest reason to thank 
God, that he had sent us this man, to conduct us on our 
way to an unknown country, and through unfrequented 
seas. 

For this serv^ice Uttakiyok was eminently qualified, and 
without such a steady, faithful guide, we should have been 
wandering in the most painful and dangerous uncer- 
tainty in the desert regions to the West of Cape Chud- 



40 

leigh, where, on a coast of 100 miles in length, we did not 
meet with a single inhabitant. He was so anxiously intent 
upon meeting us, that he had erected signals on all the 
heights surrounding his tent, to prevent our missing him. 
Among his countrymen he is much respected, on account of 
his superior sense, and skill in all Esquimaux arts, and pos- 
sesses great influence among them. 

Uttakiyoh was one of the two Esquimaux, from whom, in 
the year 1800, we received the first distinct information 
respecting the Ungava country and its inhabitants, by which 
the desire, excited both at home and here in Labrador, to 
visit the northern Esquimaux, was greatly strengthened, and 
led to a resolution, if possible, to take early steps to accom- 
phsh this object, (See page 3). 

Two years ago, he had been on a trading voyage to Okkak^ 
from Killinek, where he then dwelt, and intended to return, 
in the summer following, to Ungava, his native countiy, but 
an illness. Which befel his son, detained him. This intelli- 
gence was received at Okkak during last winter, when we 
sent him word, that as we purposed paying his countrymen 
a visit, we wished him to wait for us, that he might conduct 
us through the straits of Killinek. But having heard nothing 
further concerning him, we remained in uncertainty respect- 
ing his intentions. We were the more thankful to God, 
who had disposed the heart of this man cheerfully to accept 
of the commission, and wait to be our guide, an office which 
he performed with a degree of faithfulness and disinterested 
kindness, which claims our admiration and gratitude. 

While we were here waiting for a favourable oppor- 
tunity to pass the straits, which were yet filled with ice, 
he behaved in the kindest manner to us and our Esqui- 
maux. Though a heathen, he regularly attended our 
morning and evening worship, and declared to Jonathan, 
that he also intended to be converted to Jesus, and if we 
would Corm a settlement in his country-, would come and 



41 

live with us, and was sure, that many of his countrymen 
would do the same. 

Around his tent, a considerable extent of rock was covered 
with seaPs flesh, and in the hollows were pools of oil. Ten 
bags of blubber were standing ready for sale ; and with a 
view to shew him our good- will. Brother Kohlmeister bar- 
tered with him for three of them, which were hid under 
the stones, to take them with us, if practicable, on our 
return. 

26th. We put up our three tents ; Uttakiyok's people had 
three more. Wind N. W. We w^ere now near the entrance 
into the Ikkerasak, (or straits), which separate the island of 
Killinek and two or three other large islands from the conti- 
nent. They stretch to the N . to the distance of about 1 2 or 1 5 
English miles, the outer one forming Cape Chudleigh. To 
the N. W. of the cape lie some other small islands, called by 
the Esquimaux Tutsaets, and N. N. E. of these, the great 
island Resolution, called IgloarstiJc, on which, as we were 
informed, many Esquimaux reside. The Ttitsaets were 
discernible from this place, but not the latter, which however, 
as the Esquimaux say, may be seen from the Tutsaets. 
We guessed at its situation, from the clouds hanging over 
it in the North quarter. The weather was, as might be ex* 
pected on the northern coast of America, foggy, rainy, and 
cold, and our small stove, which we brought into the tent, 
was of great use to us during our stay in this place. 

27th. Rain and wind violent, and prevented our proceed- 
ing. We caught some Pitsiolaks, (awks), and a brace gi 
young puffins, which, with the addition of some salt m^, 
made excellent broth. 

28th. The weather was fair, but the wind still blowing 
hard at N. W. Brother Kmoch went to Uttakiyok*s tent, 
and sitting down with him at the point of Oppernavik, and 
lapking down the coast as far as Kakkeviak, got him tQ 



42 

name all tlie bays, points, and islands, fi-om Kakkeviak 
to Oppernavik, of which he made minutes. The dis- 
tance between the two points or headlands may be 
guessed at, by the time of sailing with a strong leading 
wind, namely three hours and a half. Coming up from 
Kakkeviak, to the E. lie three islands, Kikkertorsoak, Irni- 
lialuk, rather less in view, and Nessetservik. Having passed 
these, there follows a chain of small, naked islands, not very 
high, stretching towards Killinek. To the W. near Kakke- 
viak lies Uglek; then a bay, Nulluk, and farther to the left 
another bay, Tellek, (right arm) . The countiy along these 
bays is called Attanarsuk. Now follow the bay Ikkorliar' 
suk, the lower point of Tikkerarsuk, the bay Aimivagtok, 
and Kakkeviak, a high promontory, (not to be confounded 
with the other Kakkeviak, where we struck on the rock. 
This promontoiy is only about four miles from Oppernavik 
to the S. E.) Then follow two small bays, Anniovariktok 
and Sangmiyok, then the promontory UkkuUakartok, 
{meaning a headland between two bays), and the bay Tioi- 
nusitksoak. Next, the last point on the continent, forming 
the south entrance to the Ikkerasak. The abovementioned 
chain of barren islands is called by the Escpiimaux Navia^ 
rittsit, and besides them some low rocks, Nuvunitsit, The 
island of Killinek is about nine miles long, and five broad, 
high, and forming the north side of the straits. Another 
Ikkerasak, (or strait), divides it from an island called Kikker- 
torsoak, (a common name for an island), of considerable 
height, but not so long as Killinek: one, or perhaps more 
islands follow, narrowing E. and \^^ and forming Cape 
•ChucUeigh. 

To-day there was much ice both in the strait and at sea. 
We went to the nearest island, where Brother Kohlmeis- 
ter took an observation, and found our situation to be 
60° If)'. 

30th. It blew a hard gale from the N. E., rained hard, and 



43 

as the ice now began to enter our harbour^ we were busily 
engaged in keeping it off the boat. 

3 1st. Imagining to-day that the straits would be free from 
ice, we resolved to attempt to pass them, and set sail. But 
it soon became evident, that there was still plenty of ice in 
the neighbourhood, and the wind setting to the N. E. with 
fogs, we were obliged to return. Suspecting also that the 
easterly wind would again drive the ice into our former 
harbour at Oppernavik, we ran into a short pass, between 
that and a small island called Ammitok, where we anchored 
under shelter of the island. The sequel proved, that we 
had for once acted with sound judgment and foresight, for 
our former anchoring-ground was soon filled with ice; and 
during the night large flakes entered even into our present 
place of refuge. 

August 1st. At day break we found ourselves completely 
surrounded by floating ice, a strong N. W. wind driving the 
large shoals from the W. side of the little pass in which we 
lay, with much force towards us, insomuch that our boat 
was in the greatest danger of being crushed to pieces by 
them. We were all day long hard at work with poles, boat- 
hooks, and hatchets, to ward ofl" the larger shoals, but when 
the tide fell, they hung upon our cables and anchors, of 
which we had three out, closing in also on all sides of the 
boat, so that ^ve were every moment in fearful expectation 
of her being carried away, and our anchors lost, which 
would have reduced us to the most distressing situation. 
Indeed we all cried to the Lord to help us in this dangerous 
situation, and not to sufier us to perish here, but by His 
almighty aid, to save us and our boat. With great and un- 
remitting exertions we had laboured all day, from the 
morning early, till se^'cn in the evening, when the Lord 
heard our prayers, and sent relief. We now succeeded in 
working the boat out of the ice, the rising of the tide having 
opened a passage through it, just as we were, almost ex- 



44 

hausted with fatigue. It also becamBs quite calm, and we 
felt as if we had passed from death to li&. 

Having anchored again on the opposite side of the little 
pass or strait^ we gave thanks to God, for the deliverance 
we had experienced through His mercy, p which our Es- 
quimaux, young and old, most fervently joined. 

During our stay at Oppernavik, our whole stock of fire- 
wood was expended, and we were obliged to purchase of 
our companions, what they had to spare. We likewise 
robbed some old Esquimaux graves of the wooden utensils, 
which it is the superstitious practice of the heathen to 
lay beside the corpses of their owners, with old tent-poles, 
&c. and thus obtained fuel sufficient for our cookery. 

Wood will not decay by mere exposure to the air in La- 
brador, but wastes away gradually; and after forty or more 
years, the wood found at the graves is still fit for use. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Departure from Oppernavik, Pass the Ikkerasak of Killi" 
nek, JVhirlpooU. The coast takes a southerly/ di7'ection. 
Meeting with Esgtdmaux from the Ungava country ^ ivho 
had never seen an European. Anchor at Omanek. High 
tides, Drift-tvood, Double Cape Uibvaksoak, Distant 
vieiv of Akpatok, 

AUGUST 2d Having made all needful preparations for 

the voyage, a gentle but favourable wind, and occasional 
rowing, brought us, about nine in the morning, to the 
entrance of the much dreaded Ikkerasak. The weather was 
pleasant and warm, not a flake of ice was to be seen, and all 
our fear and anxiety had subsided. Our minds were attuned 
to praise and thanksgiving for the providential preservation 



45 

we had experienced yesterday. We performed our mornmg 
devotions on deck, and all joined in a joyful hallelujah to 
God our Saviour, vi^hich was sweetly repeated by echoes 
among the mountains and precipices on either side. The 
scripture-text appointed in the Church of the United Brethren 
for this day being read, it seemed as if addressed particularly 
to us, separated as we felt ourselves, in these lonely regions, 
from the rest of the inhabitants of the earth : ^^ See noiv that 
*^ /, even /, am He, and there is no God with me: I kill, and 
*^ I make alive ; Iivound, and Iheal^ Deut. 32, 39. We 
rejoiced, that we were in the hands of a gracious and merciful 
God and Father^ who would not forsake us, but deal with us 
according to his wonted mercy and fa v our. 

The Ikkerasak, (or strait), is about ten miles in length \ th^ 
land on each side high and rocky, and in some places preci- 
pitous, but there appeared no rocks in the strait itself. The 
water is deep and clear. Its mouth is wide, and soon after 
entering, a bay opens to the left, which by an inlet only just 
wide enough to admit a boat, communicates with a lagoon of 
considerable magnitude, in which lies an island on its western 
bank. Beyond this bay, the passage narrows and conse- 
quently the stream, always setting from N. to S. grows more 
rapid. Here the mountains on both sides rise to a great 
height. Having proceeded for two miles in a narrow channel, 
the strait opens again, but afterwards contracts to about 1000 
yards across ; immediately beyond which, the left coast turns 
to the south. As the tide ebbs regularly with the current 
from N. to S. along the whole coast of Labrador, the current 
through the strait is most violent during its fall, and less, 
when resisted by its influx on rising. 

We were taught to expect much danger in passing certain 
eddies or whirlpools in the narrow parts of the straits, and 
were therefore continually upon the look-out for them. 
When we passed the first narrow channel, at 12 P. M. it 
being low water, no whirlpool was perceptible. Having 



46 ' 

sailed on for little more than half an hoiir^ with wind and 
tide in our favour^ we reached the second. Herc^ indeed, 
we discovered a whirlpool, bnt of no great magnitude at this 
state of the tide. Near tlie north-shore the water was, in- 
deed, whirled round in the manner of a boiling cauldron of 
ten or twelve feet diameter, Avith considerable noise and 
much foam ; but we passed without the smallest inconveni- 
ence, within thirty or forty feet of the outer circle. Our 
skin-boat, however, -which we had in tow, with a man in it, 
WcLS seized by the vortex, and received a rapid twist; but as 
the towing-rope did not break, she was immediately rescued 
from danger by the swiftness of our course, and the affair 
afforded us more diversion than anxiety. The motion of 
the water in these eddies is so great, that they never freeze 
in the severest winter. The ice being drawn towards them 
with great force, the largest shoals are carried under water, 
and throA^n up again, broken into numerous fragments. The 
Ikkerasak is at that season utterly impassable for boats. 
The Killinek people inhabit an island to the right, after leav- 
ing- the strait. 

When we quitted the Ikkerasak, and entered the ocean on 
the western side of Cape Chudleigh^ it seemed as if we were 
transported to a new world. Hitherto the coast to our left 
had ahvays taken a northerly direction. It now turned to 
theS.S.W. and is low, with gently sloping hills, the sea 
being full of small islands, abounding in sea-fowl. 

To the N. and N. W. we saw the open sea in Hudson's 
Straits, which, compared to the turbulent Atlantic, seemed 
calm and peaceful. We sailed briskly amidst the islands, 
and overtook tlie inhabitants of Saeglek, whom we had seen 
at Kakkeviak, where they had got the start of us. The wind 
being favourable, we did not hail them, but kept on our 
course. We now saw \Aith pleasure the Ungava countiy to 
the South before us, but had first to pass the low point of 
UivarsuJ{y the bay of ArvavUiy in which the people from 



47 

Saeglelc had their summer stations, and the mountain Oma^ 
nek, of moderate height3 and surrounded by many small 
islets, called by the Esquimaux Erngavinget, (bowels). We 
now discovered three skin-boats full of people standing 
towards us from the shore. They were inhabitants of Un- 
gava, and welcomed our approach with loud shouts of joy 
and firing their pieces, which was answered by our paity. 
They followed us to Omanek, a round island rising like a 
loaf among the rest^ where they pitched their tents on 
shore. 

Some of them had formerly dwelt in different places nortli 
of Okkak, and were known to the Missionaries in former 
times, the rest were perfect strangers. They declared their 
intention of coming over to the North of Okkak, to remain 
some time in that countiy, for the sake of trade. It has 
been mentioned, that some of the Ungava people have come 
to Okkak, and carry on a trade between their countrymen 
and that place. They are a kind of middle men, bring fox 
and bear- skins, and exchange them for European goods. 
These they carr}' back, and sell at a very advanced price in 
the Ungava country. They spend two years on such a trad- 
ing voyage. 

Brother Kohlmeister visited the people in their tentiJ. 
They were about fifty in number, men, women, and chil- 
dren. He informed them, that nothing cx)uld induce the 
Missionaries to come into this country, but love to the poor 
heathen, and an ardent desire to make them acquainted w\t\i 
their Creator and Redeemer, that through Him they might 
attain to happiness in time and eternity. Some seemed to 
listen with great attention, but the greater part understood 
nothing of what was said. This, of course, did not surprise us, 
as most of them were quite ignorant heathen, wdio had never 
before seen anEuropean. They, however, raised a shout of joy, 
when we informed them, that we would come and visit them 
in their own countrv. Manv were not satisfied with view- 



48 • 

mg us on eveiy side with marks of great astonishment, but 
came close up to us, and pawed us all over. At taking leave 
we presented them with a few trifles, which excited among 
them the greatest pleasure and thankfulness. 

We recommend these heathen to the mercy of God, and 
pray, that the day may soon dawn, when the light of the sav- 
ing gospel of Jesus may shine into their hearts. 

3d. Several of them came on board, once more to see us, 
and, in their way, to express their regard and gratitude. 
They also got some useful articles from our people, in ex- 
change for their goods. We now set sail, passed a point 
called Oglarviky and the bay Takpangayok^ and arrived at 
Tuktusiovik, (a place where reindeer are seen), where we 
cast anchor for the night. Already at Omanek we had dis- 
covered a great difference between the rise and fall of the 
tides there and about Killinek. In the latter place it rose to 
four fathoms, but here still higher. The counti-y looked 
pleasant, with many berry-bearing plants and bushes. There 
was, likewise, plenty of drift-wood all along the coast 5 not 
the large Greenland timber, but small trees and roots, evi- 
dently carried out of the great rivers of the Ungava by the 
ice. We had, of course, fire-wood enough, without robbing 
the graves of their superstitious furniture. Our Esquimaux 
pitched their tent on shore, and we supped with them on a 
mess of seal's flesh and eider-ducks. The musquitoes were 
extremely troublesome during our repast, after which we re- 
tired to sleep on board the boat. 

4th. Wind lair. We passed numerous low rocks ; a point, 
by name unknown to Uttakiyok; the bay Ikpigitok, twa 
miles broad, and the cape called Uibvaksoak, the northern 
boundary of the great bay or gulf of Ahloriak. This cape 
is surrounded by many bare and sunken rocks, which caused 
us to stand out pretty far to the westward. While we were 
off the point, we descried, at a very great distance to the 
Jw\ W. a large island, called by the Esquimaux Akpatok, 



49 

They say, that it encloses the whole bay or gulf towards the 
sea, and consists of high land : also, that it is connected with 
the western continent at low water by an isthmus. The 
north coast of this island appears to be the line laid down in 
maps and charts as the coast of America, to the south of 
Hudson's Straits. But the district of Ungava is separated 
from the island by a large inland bay, extending southward 
to the 58° N. L. North of Akpatok, the Esquimaux speak 
of islands well peopled by their countrymen, who have never 
seen Europeans. 

Having safely doubled the point or cape of Uihvaksoaky 
we came to an anchor near a small island to the south, 
where we spent the night. 

5th. Calm weather, and proceeded gently. About 9 A. M. 
the wind turned against us, and we ran into a small bay, 
about five miles from our former anchoring-place. Here we 
found the Andromeda tetragona growing in tolerable quan- 
tity, on the banks of a lagoon of fresh water. The face of 
the countiy was unpleasant, with many steep rocks. On a 
precipice behind our tent we perceived nests of birds of prey. 
The naked rocks had singular shapes, and presented to the 
imagination the ruins of a destroyed town. In the vallies we 
saw many small lagoons, but little grass, and the excrements 
of geese. It was about fall moon, and the tide rising here 
five or six fathom, occasioned the most strange alterations 
in the prospect towards the sea, which, being smooth and 
clear of rocks at high water, exhibited, after its fall, an archi- 
pelago of rugged islands and black flats. 




50 



CHAPTER IX, 

Chain of hlack mountams. The Dragons dwelling, Chaiiges 
occasioned hy rise and fall of the tides, and dangers attend- 
ing them, UttakiyoTis superstitious customs. Singular 
effect of the tide in the hay of Ittimnekoktok, Arrive at 
Kangertlaaluksoak hay and river. Its situation. Trans- 
actions there, 

AUGUST 6th We crossed the bay Ahloriak, which is 

large and wide^ with many small islands and rocks to- 
wards the sea, and high black mountains inland, called 
Torngaets. Uttakiyok, who was always very eager to make 
us attentive to every object and its name, shewed us here 
a wide and deep cavern, in shape like the gable end of an 
house, situated at the top of a precipice, in a black moun- 
tain, of a very horrid and dark appearance. This, he in- 
formed us, was the dwelling-place of Torngak, the evil spi- 
rit. The scenery was, indeed, extremely wild and terrible, 
and the beforementioned prospect of the rocks and islands at 
low water gave to the whole countiy a most singularly 
gloomy character. Nor is this change, occasioned by the 
tide in the state of the sea, merely in appearance terrific, it 
is so in reality : for we never durst cast anchor in less than 
eight or nine fathoms water, lest at ebb-tide we should fmd 
ourselves aground, or even high and diy. 

The cavern just spoken of, connected with the chain of 
black mountains in which it is situated, we called the Dra- 
gon's dwelling, but had no time to examine the place, 
though it did not appear inaccessible. Whether Uttakiyok 
would have ventured to accompany us into it, is another 
question, for he was, with all his good sense, strongly at- 
tached to the superstitious notions and ceremonies of his 



51 

countrymen. Thus, on passing dangerous places he always 
hung the claw of a raven to his breast, and carried the blown 
paunch of a seal upon a tent-pole fixed to one side of his 
boat. The latter is a common practice among the northern 
Esquimaux, and probably considered by them all as a very 
efficient charm. 

We passed Sioralik, and many small and flat rocky is- 
lands: the bay Issorkitok, (a grassy place), a nameless 
headland; and the larger bay Nappartolik, (a woody coun- 
try) . The wood is said to commence at the interior point 
of this bay, and to continue throughout the whole of the 
Ungava countr^^, which, as we afterwards discovered, ex- 
tends to a considerable distance to the southward. Then 
follows Tunnuyaliky a point, or perhaps an island, on which 
lies a huge white stone, twenty or thirty feet high, by which 
it is distinguished from other similar headlands. A chain of 
low, flat islands, runs out into the sea to a considerable dis- 
tance, and appearing at a distance as continued land, they are 
mistaken for a cape. Farther on is the bay Ittimnekoktok, 
where it grew dark before w^e found a suitable anchorage. 
The wind was high, and some of our company went on 
shore in the skin-boat, in order to pitch their tent, and 
speiid the night. 

7 th. On rising, to our great surprise, we found ourselves 
left by the tide in a shallow pool of water, surrounded by 
rocky hills ; nor could we at all discover the situation of our 
skin-boat, till after the water had begun to rise, and raised 
us above the banks of our watery dungeon, when, with 
great astonishment, not having been able to find it on the 
surface of the sea, and accidentally directing our eyes up- 
wards, we saw it perched upon the top of a considerable 
eminence, and apparently on shore. We then landed, and 
ascending a rising ground, beheld with some terror, the 
wonderful changes occasioned by the tides. Our course 
was visibk to the extent of two or three English miles, but 



52 

the sea had left it^ and we were obliged to remain in this 
dismal place, till about noon, before the water had risen 
sufficiently to carry us out. We now began to entertain 
fears, lest we might not always be able to find proper har- 
bours, so as to avoid being left high and dry at low water ; 
for having anchored in nine fathoms last night, we were 
left in one and a half this morning. Uttakiyok and Thuk- 
kekina were with us on shore. The eminence on which 
we stood was overgrown with vaccinia and other plants, 
and we saw among them marks of its being visited by hares. 
Near the summit was a spot, covered with red sand, which 
stained one's fingers, and among it were fragments of a 
substance resembling cast iron. We seemed here to stand 
on a peninsula connected by an isthmus with another island, 
or with the continent ; but probably at high water it may 
be a separate island. 

As soon as the tide would permit, we set out, and pro- 
ceeded towards a cape called Kattaktok, surrounded by 
small islands. Between the cape and our anchoring place, 
we passed, on the left, the following objects ; Keglo, a broad 
deep bay; Katarusialik, a headland, probably of the conti- 
nent ; Ukkasiksalik, (meaning a place where soap stone is 
found), a peninsula; and to the right of the latter place, an 
island, Kikkertarsoak, which lies at the entrance of the 
Great Bay, or cst\iaiy of the great river Kangertlualuksoak. 
We sailed with a strong, but favourable wind, with some 
rain, between the peninsula and the island ; and not trusting 
to the depth of the water at ebb-tide, sent two kayaks for- 
ward to sound. They soon brought us into a good harbour, 
where we cast anchor about half past five P. M. 

Kangertlualukaoak river was the spot to which we had 
principally directed our views. It lies about 140 miles 
S. S. W. of Cape Chudleigh. By an observation at its 
mouth its latitude appeared to be 58° 57'. But we had no 
means of finding the longitude. At its entrance the bay 



53 

runs rather S. S. E. for about ten or twelve English miles, 
then turns due S. E. for six or eight more^ and after that 
S. W. At the second turn towards the S. E. there is the 
greatest quantity of wood, chiefly Larch, but of moderate 
size. We particularly noticed a fine slope facing the south, 
which appeared the most pleasant part of the bay, to which 
a vessel might approach and anchor with convenience, there 
being from 24 to 30 fathoms water. We also imagined that 
the entrance from the sea would be free from obstructions, 
as no islands are seen in that direction. Uttakiyok likewise 
declared, that there was no bar or sunken rocks near the 
mouth of the bay. 

We found no inhabitants on our arrival, but on the 13th, 
a whole company of people from Killinek joined us. 

Our transactions in the bay of Kangertlualuksoak, from 
the 7th, are here noticed more in detail. 

August 8th. We landed, and went in search of our people^ 
who had spent the night in tents on shore. Okkiksuk ac- 
companied us to the top of a hill, overlooking the bay Ittim- 
ntkoktok^ where we had anchored the day before. We saw 
it quite dry, and flill of large fragments of rock. Turning 
towards the land, we discovered some wood at a distance^ 
The weather being calm and warm, the musquitoes were 
excessively troublesome. The vallies here are overgrown 
with verdure, and the hills pretty well clothed with moss, 
and berry-bearing plants ; but we could not continue our 
walk, on account of the musquitoes, which persecuted us 
unmercifully, and drove us back to our tents. All our 
men were out, two on that side on which we had landed, 
and the others having crossed the bay in their kayaks, were 
employed in hunting reindeer. Jonathan only remained at 
home. In the afternoon he accompanied us in the small 
boat, to a hill, situated to the South of our station, at about 
two miles distant, where we landed, and went up the coun- 
try, but found nothing much worth notice. We observed. 



54 

that round the headland near us, the water was very rough, 
with eddies and whirlpools, occasioned by the rising of the 
high tides. On returning to our little boat, we found it 
aground. We therefore gathered some drift-wood, of which 
there was plenty, and made a good fire, at which we sat 
down and regaled ourselves with some biscuit and beer. 
Having pushed the boat into the water, we set out, but 
owing to the violence of the current had hard work to get 
to the great boat, and did not arrive till dark. Jonas saluted 
us from on board, by firing ofF his piece in token of success, 
and we found that he had got two, and his companion three 
reindeer, and a small black bear. The carcases were left at 
the tents, where part was cooked, and a mess brought to us 
on board, which proved an agreeable repast after our fatigue. 
Jonas and his family spent the night on board, the rest of 
the Esquimaux in their tents on shore. 

9th. Jonas having found a good harbour on the other side 
of the bay, and the current being here veiy strong, we sailed 
across and anchored there. The strand was even, and 
full of smooth rocks, above high water mark. The bottom 
of the bay is mud, and a slimy substance, covering all the 
stones and pebbles, left by the tide, makes walking very 
troublesome. 

The land is not high, but pleasant, covered with moss, 
with many small ponds, and marks of being frequented by 
reindeer. 

10th. We went farther up the bay in the skin-boat, with 
Jonathan, Uttakiyok, Thukkekina, Paul, David, and Ok- 
kiksuk. At a short distance from the place where we had 
landed yesterday, we came to a fine green terrace, over- 
grown with low shrubs and bushes, which delighted us 
much. From hence, a woody valley, extending to the left, 
seemed to invite us to take that course into the countiy, 
but we would not waste our time by examining it. On 
sailing farther up the bay, and turning round the above 



55 

mentioned terrace^ we came to a small inlet^ dry at low 
water, on the left shore. Its banks were pleasantly covered 
with low bushes, interspersed with higher trees, and the 
place seemed to ns very suitable for a settlement. From 
hence we perceived, at a short distance, on the opposite 
coast, a cape or headland, over which the tops of trees made 
their appearance. We sailed towards it, and found behind 
it a tract covered with low wood, chiefly larch and pine : on 
landing we saw the tracks of rein-deer, which had just left 
the spot. Jonathan, in an instant, ran like a young man for 
his gun, and with it into the wood. We followed him 
for two or three miles, but saw nothing but the track of the 
deer. The country inland seems in general level, with 
some low hills, and many ponds 5 without wood, but over- 
grown with rein- deer moss. No success attended our 
huntsman, and in the evening we met again in the boat. 
Brother Kmoch had kept up with Jonathan, and saw, 
among the bushes, the same kind of large partridge, or 
American wild pheasant, which is found about Okkak, but 
seems only to live in woods. It was a hen, with a covey of 
young birds, one of which which he caught, examined, and 
let go again, nor would he take or shoot the hen, out of 
compassion to the young brood. 

Brother Kohlmeister had meanwhile gone farther up the 
bay, and thought he had discovered the entrance of the river, 
but no fresh water appearing, we must still have been a 
great way off its influx into the bay. 

We now lighted a fire, boiled coffee, and cooked a dish of 
reindeer venison. The weather was warm, and the night 
fine and clear, but frosty. Having brought our travelling- 
beds with us on shore, (see page 34), we crept into them, 
and spent the night at the fire-side, the Esquimaux lying 
down anywhere about us. In the morning, the whole 
countiy was covered with hoar-frost, and the straw we had 
lain upon was frozen fast to the ground. 



56 



CHAPTER X. 

Further transactions in Kangertlualuksoak Bay, The Es* 
quimaux women frightened hy reports of Indians. Ceremony 
of taking possession of this neiv -explored country, as be- 
longing to the King of England, and of naming the river 
George river. Leave the hay and proceed to Arvarvik, 
Whales caught hy the Esquimaux in the shallows. Storm 
at Kernertut. 

AUGUST nth We rose by break of day, and after 

breakfast, sailed across the bay, and landed at the second 
small inlet, with an intention of penetrating into the coun- 
try, but the returning warmth of the weather by day, and 
the myriads of musquitoes we had to contend with, rendered 
us unable to execute our purpose. 

The Missionaries and Jonathan ascended a hill, from 
which a great tract of country might be overlooked. It 
was full of wood, as far as the eye could reach. Near the 
inlet some places seemed boggy, or covered with grass. 
From hence a valley stretched into the country, with a 
small lake in it, about two or three miles distant. Berries 
were eveiy where in abundance. The summits of the hills 
had no wood upon them, but much reindeer-moss. 

On our return, being about a mile from our landing- 
place, we saw our skin-boat in the middle of the bay, and 
fired a gun as a signal for it to come to us. The Esquimaux 
had five rein-deer in the boat, which Uttakiyok had per- 
ceived on the opposite bank. He had followed them in his 
kayak, driven them into the water, and killed them there. 
When hard pressed, reindeer soon take to the water, and 
swim so well, that a four-oared boat can scarcely come up 



57 

With them, but an Esquimaux, in his kayak will overtake 
them. They therefore, if possible, drive them into the 
water, being then sure of their game. 

After dining on part of the venison, we returned to the 
great boat. On the passage, we thought we perceived at a 
considerable distance a black bear, and Uttakiyok, elated with 
his recent success, hoped to gain new laurels. He entered 
his kayak and proceeded as cautiously as possible along the 
shore, towards the spot, landed, climbed the hill, so as not to 
be observed, but when he had got just within gun-shot, 
perceived, that his bear was a black stone. This adventure 
furnished the company with merriment for the remainder of 
the voyage to the boat, which we reached about six P. M. 

When we got on board the boat, we found that all the 
women had taken refuge in it, thinking that they had seen 
Indians on shore. The men therefore immediately landed, 
to take care of the forsaken tents. This was no doubt a 
false alarm, for we never discovered any traces of them 
during our stay. To the south of Hopedale the Indians and 
Esquimaux sometimes meet, but as the Hopedale Esqui- 
maux seek to cultivate their friendship, quarrels and blood- 
shed seldom occur. In Ungava, however, though they 
often exchange tokens of friendship, they are apt to give 
way to their national jealousies ; and provocations being 
aggravated, their meetings now and then terminate in 
murder. The Esquimaux are much afraid of the Indians, 
%vho are a more nimble and active race. 

12th. Having finished reconnoitring the neighbourhood, 
and gathered all the information concerning it, which our 
means would permit, and likewise fixed upon the green 
slope or terrace above described, as the most suitable place 
for a settlement, on account of the abundance of wood in its 
neighbourhood, we made preparations to proceed. Uttalci- 
yok, who had spent more than one winter in the Ungava 
country, assured us, that there was here an ample supply of 



58 

provisions^ both in summer and winter, which Jonathan also 
credited, from his own observation. The former likewise 
expressed himself convinced, that if we would form a settle- 
ment here, many Esquimaux would come to us from all 
parts. We ourselves were satisfied that Europeans might 
find the means of existence in this place, as it was accessible 
for ships, and had wood and water in plenty. As for Es- 
quimaux, there appeared no want of those things upon 
which they live, the sea abounding with whitefish, seals, 
sea fowl, &c. and the land with reindeer, hares, bears, and 
other animals. The people from Killinek declared their 
intention of removing hither, if we would come and dwell 
among them, and are even now in the habit of visiting this 
place every summer. Our own company even expressed a 
wish to spend the winter here. 

This being the day before our departure, we erected, on 
two opposite hills, at the entrance of the bay, high marks of 
stones, and on the declivity of a hill to the right, a board, 
into which we had cut an inscription, thus 



In front. 



GeorgiusIII. Rex. 

Societas 
Unitatis Fratrum. 



At the back. 



III. 




B. K. 


G. R. 




G. K. 


S. 




Aug. 7, 


U. F. 




1811. 









Benjamin Kohlmcister, 

Gt'orge Kmoch. 

Aug.7, 1811. 

The day of our arrival. 



We raised and fixed this tablet with some solemnity, irv 
presence of Uttakiyok and his famity, as representatives of 
the people of Ungava, and of our own company, and hoisted 
the British flag alongside of it, while another was displayed 
at the same time in the boat. We explained the cause of 
this ceremony to all present, to the following cftect — 



59 

" That we, on this day, raised this sign, in the name of 
" our king, George III. the great monarch of all these ter- 
*^ ritories, in testimony of our having explored it, and made 
*^ choice of it, in case we or our Brethren should think 
*^ proper to settle here. To which we called upon all pre- 
*^ sent to bear witness."' We then proclaimed the name of 
the Kangertlualuksoak to be henceforth George River, upon 
which every man fired his piece three times, the vollies being 
answered from the boat. 

The texts of scripture appointed for this day were then 
read, and we remarked how encouraging they were, as 
relating to the purpose, for which we visited these unknown 
regions : 

From the rising of the sun, even to the going down of the 
same, my name shall he great among the Gentiles, saith the 
Lord of Hosts: Mai. 11, 1. 

^t the name of Jesus every knee shall boiu, of things in 
heaven, and things in earth, a7id things under the earth; and 
every tongve shall confess, that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the 
glory of God the Father! Philippians, 2, 10, 11. 

After the ceremony was over, we distributed some pease, 
bread, and beer among the Esquimax, which enabled them 
to make a splendid feast, and the day was spent in the most 
agreeable manner. 

13th. We set sail, about six A. M. with a gentle breeze, 
which however soon fell away entirely, and obliged us to 
take to our oars. Near the mouth of the bay, we met several 
kayaks, coming towards us. They were Esquimaux from 
Killinek, w^ho expressed regret at not having sooner heard 
of our being here : some came on board, and traded W\t\\ 
our people. We presented them with a little tobacco, for 
which they were veiy thankful. 

In order to get well out of the bay, we first steered North, 
and then passed to the S. W. between a peninsula Nauyaty 
lying to the left of the entrance, and seven small islands and 



€0 

rocks on the right, towards the island of Arvarvik, about 
six or seven miles distant, where we were obliged to cast 
anchor in an exposed situation, the wind having become 
contrary. There was a strong swell during the night, which 
violently agitated our boat. 

Ai^arvik is about five miles in circumference. It is 
covered with the bones of whales, which the Esquimaux 
cacch here in their kayaks. The coast is surrounded by a 
great number of small low islands, with deep pools between 
them. Into these the whales stray at high water, and at the 
ebbing of the tide, are prevented finding their way back 
again. The Esquimaux then pursue and kill them with 
harpoons. In the island are ponds of fresh water, and some 
low hills, overgrown with moss. A great number of sea- 
fowl, and also reindeer, are found upon it. 

On the shore we found great quantities of a red jasper, or 
iron-stone, the same Avhich occurs throughout the coast, 
from KilUnek to South river, not as a stratum, but in 
lumps, and generally below high water mark. 

The Esquimaux who landed on the continent reported, 
that about two miles inland, there was much low wood. 

14th. We left our unpleasant anchorage, and returned to 
a place where the skin-boat had lain during the night, as 
it was sheltered from the South wind, which had risen 
considerably. 

15th. Our people went out to hunt reindeer, and re- 
turned in the evening with two. The wind shifted to the 
west, and blew with violence. We spent again an uneasy 
night. 

16th. Brother Kmoch went on shore and returned with a 
parcel of stones for examination. We now began to feel 
some anxiety on account of the great loss of time we were 
^ufTering here by contrary winds. 

17th. About eight o'clock we set sail, the wind having 
pome round to the S. E, with a cloudy sky. We passed 



61 

several nameless islands, at the distance of about a mile from 
the shore. In the afternoon, it began to rain hard, and after 
having sailed about twelve miles, we cast anchor near a long 
point of land, called Kernertut, by which we were sheltered 
from the wind, which had again turned to the South-wesU 
The sky however was clear, and the beginning of the night 
pleasant, w^ith beautifal appearances of the Aurora Borealis. 
Most of our people, and with them Uttakiyok, had gone in 
the skin-boat higher up the bay, but it was too shallow to 
admit of our following them. Only Jonas and his children^ 
and the two boys Okkiksuk and Mammak, were left with 
us on board. 

During the night the wind veered round to the N. E, 
and blew a gale, which increased in violence till day-break. 

1 8th. The sea now rose to a tremendous height, such as 
we had never before experienced, and by the change of 
wind, we were exposed to the whole of its fury. The rain 
fell in torrents. We lay at three anchors, and the boat was 
tossed about terribly, the sea frequently breaking quite over 
her, insomuch that we expected every moment to be swal- 
lowed up in the abyss. With mxuch difficulty we succeeded 
in lowering our after-mast. Jonathan and the rest of oiu* 
company on shore, were obliged to be passive spectators of 
the dreadful scene, waiting the event in silent anguish. 
They quitted their tents, and came foi-ward to some emi- 
nences near the beach, where, by lifting up their hands, and 
other gestures, they expressed terror, bordering on despair. 
Frequently the boat was hid from their view by the waves, 
which ran mountains high. They expected every moment 
that we should break loose from our anchors, and the boat 
be driven on the rocks. The length of our cables was here of 
the greatest advantage to us. About noon, the rope by which 
the small boat was fastened, broke. She was immediately 
carried up the bay, and thrown, by the violence of the surf, 
on the top of a rock, where she stuck fast, keel upwards. It 



62 

was impossible to render us any assistance^ till the tide 
turned, when the raging of the sea, and the wind, began to 
abate. As soon as it was practicable, Jonathan and the 
other men came to us in the skin -boat. He seemed quite 
overcome with joy, and, not able to utter a word, held out 
his hand, and shed tears of gratitude that he met us again 
alive, for he had given us up for lost. 

We now endeavoured to bring the great boat closer to the 
shore, landed, pitched our tent, and gave thanks to God for 
the merciful deliverance we had just experienced. Indeed 
all our jjeople most fervently joined in praise to Him for the 
preservation of our lives. A warm dinner was soon prepared, 
by which we were much refreshed. 

As soon as the tide had ebbed sufficiently for it, our peo- 
ple went to the rock, on which the small boat lay, and got 
her into the water. To our great surprize we found, that 
she had received no material injury* 



CHAPTER XL 

JDc^ihis expressed hy Jonathan and the other Esqtdmatix on 
the expedienci/ of continuing the voyage. Consult at io7is. 
Jtesolve to proceed. Thunder-storm at Pitsiolak, Account 
of Indians. Esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts, At^ 
rival in the river Koksoak, 

JONATHAN and Jonas now became more and more an- 
xious about our situation. They represented to us, that, if 
we attempted to proceed farther, we might probably be 
compelled to remain here the whole winter, as the stormy 
season was fast approaching. They added, that to the7n, it 
would be of little consequence, but that they were concerned 
on our account. 



Though we had not said any thing as yet that might tend 
to shake the confidence of our party, yet we felt no small 
degree of perplexity concerning present appearances. Du- 
ring the six days since we left Geoi-ge's River, we had mada 
little more than fourteen or fifteen miles, and were at least, 
as far as we could judge, seventy' or eight}- from the ri%-er 
Koksoaky which we had fixed upon as the fmal object of the 
voyage, being the outermost western boundary' of the Ungava 
countr}-. Insurmountable difficulties seemed now to present 
themselves, owing partly to contrary winds and cold weather, 
and partly to loss of time, for we had been already two 
months on the voyage, and had not yet obtained our aim : 
so that our return might be unseasonably late, if we pro- 
ceeded. We could not possibly make up our minds to 
spend the winter here, as we had not a sufficient supply of 
provisions, and knew what distress it would occasion to our 
Brethren at Okkak. 

We felt quite at a loss what to do in this dilemma, and our 
path seemed enveloped in obscurity. We remembered, that 
^^ to the upright there ariseth a light in the darkness,'' (Ps. 
112, 4): that is, to them who fear and trust in the Lord, and 
sincerely desire to know and do His will, He will reveal it. 
InHis name we had entered upon this voyage, the only ulti- 
mate object of which was, the conversion of a benighted, 
neglected nation, in one of the remotest corners of the earth. 
We vrere, therefore, sure that He would not forsake us, nor 
leave us in uncertainty as to His will concerning us, but that 
He, *^ tvhose eyes run to and fro throughout the tvhole 
^' earth, to shew Himself strong in the behalf of them tvhose 
^* heart is perfect towards Him," (2 Chron. 16, 9.) ^^as, 
even in this desolate region, present with us, and would 
hear and answer our prayers. Many comfortable texts of 
scripture occurred to our minds on this occasion, filling us 
with an extraordinary degree of faith and confidence in Him, 



64 

particularly such as^ ^^ He ivill he very gracious unto thee 
*^ at the voice of thy cry; when He shall hear it. He tvill an- 
♦^ stver thee;' Isa. 30, 19. Also, Dan. 10, 19; Jer. 16, 21 ; 
Isa. 43, 2, &c. The mercies, also, which we had already 
experienced, excited within us a sense of the deepest grati- 
tude and most firm trust ; and we therefore told our people, 
that we indeed participated in their concern, would take 
the subject into serious consideration, and acquaint them 
with our determination on the morrow. 

19th. In the morning we met in our tent, Avhere we were 
safe from the intrusion of the Esquimaux, to confer together 
upon this most important subject. We weighed all the cir- 
cumstances connected with it, maturely and impartially, as 
in the presence of God, and, not being able to come to any 
decision, where reasons for and against the question seemed 
to hold such an even balance, we determined to commit our 
case to Htm, who has promised, that " if two of His people 
" shall agree on earthy as touching any thing that they shall 
*' as/c, it shall be done for them^' (Matth. 18, 19.) and, 
kneeling down, entreated Him to hear our prayers and sup- 
plications in this our distressed and embarrassing situation, 
and to make known to us His will concerning our future 
proceedings, whether we should persevere in fulfilling the 
whole aim of our voyage, or, prevented by circumstances, 
give up a part, and return home from this place. 

The peace of God which filled our hearts on this memora- 
ble occasion, and the strong conviction wrought in us both, 
that we should persevere, in His name, to fulfil the whole 
of our commission, relying without fear on His help and 
preservation, no words can describe; but those who believe 
in the fulfilment of the gracious promises of Jesus, given to 
His poor followers and disciples, will understand us, when 
we declare, that we were assured, that it was the will of God 
our Saviour, that wc should not now return and leave our 



65 

work unfinished^ but proceed to the end of our proposed 
voyage. Each of us communicated to his brother the con- 
viction of his hearty all fears and doubts vanished, and we 
were filled anew with courage and willingness to act in obe- 
dience to it_, in the strength of the Lord. O that all men 
knew the comfort and happiness of a mind devoted unto, and 
firmly trusting in God in all things ! 

When we made known our determination to Jonathan 
and his son Jonas, and told them, that we had maturely con- 
sidered the subject committed by them to us, and that, in 
answer to our prayers, the Lord had convinced us, that, not 
having obtained the aim of our voyage, we should proceed, 
Jonas, at first, seemed not quite satisfied, but our excellent 
captain, Jonathan, without hesitation replied : ^^ Yes, that 
^^ is also my conviction 1 We will go whither Jesus directs 
" us. He will bring us safe to our journey's end, and 
^^ safe home again.'' We were, indeed, glad and thankful 
that the Lord had inclined the heart of this man, who but 
yesterday seemed to be quite dispirited, to take this resolu- 
tion, for much depended upon him, and the rest followed 
him without difficulty. Indeed they all submitted to our de- 
termination with a willing mind, and their expressions of 
resignation affected us much. 

During the day, the men had been out a-hunting, when 
Uttakiyok killed three reindeer, which occasioned great re- 
joicing, and helped to make our people forget the frightful 
scenes of yesterday. The country is full of black-looking 
rocks, between which reindeer-moss and berries grow in 
plenty . The shore exhibited still many marks of the violence 
of the storm. 

20th. We proceeded with a favourable wind at N^ E. 
Our course lay S. W. across a broad bay, then, after doub- 
ling a point, across another bay of about the same breadth, 
to an islsLiid. 4Un/£j)(iluk^ which we passed i>fi the right, and 



66 

on the left, anotlier island, Nipkotok, At a considerable dis- 
tance a-head lay the islands Pitsiolak, opposite a headland 
of the continent called Tuktiitok, 

The sky had been from the morning cloudy^ the wind be- 
came unfavourable and violent, and about noon heavy rain 
came on. Not beuig well able to proceed, on account of the 
violence of the wind, we cast anchor on the west side of 
Pitsiolak, about 2 P. M. but perceiving a thunder-storm 
rising from the western horizon, with verj^ black clouds, 
threatening to drive us on shore if we remained at this an- 
chorage, we weighed as quickly as possible, and endeavoured 
to get to the other side of the island. 

Meanwhile a most tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, 
and rain overtook us. The claps of thunder followed the 
flashes without interval, and the lightning seemed to strike 
into the water close to our boat, while the wind carried the 
epi*ay into the air like smoke. Providentially we had 
doubled the northern point before the worst came on, and 
got to an anchor under shelter of the land. The storm passed 
by swiftly, it grew calm, the sun broke out, and the weather 
became uncommonly fine with us, though at a distance we 
saw the black clouds, and heard the hollow murmuring of 
the thunder for a long time. 

We now expected to have a comfortable night's rest, but 
it grew intensely cold, and again began to blow violently 
from the west. The strong current and heavy swell brought 
us into some danger, and the poor people, who were obliged 
to remain on deck all night, sufFercd much fi*om cold and 
wet. When the tide was full, about midnight, the island 
vve had seen to the west nearly vanished, the greater part be- 
ing -coA'ered with water. 

21st. In the morning wc again saw the skin-boat lying 
npon a pretty high rock, and a tent pitched close to it. The 
*veather was calm, but the wind contraiy. Our Esquimaux 



67 

made good use of tins respite to refresh themselves after 
the fatigues of the night with a hearty meal and a sound 
nap. 

In the aftenioon we landed. The island Pitsiolak^ Avhich 
forms two at high water, is low and flat, overgro^vn with 
Empetrum and Rubus Chamoemorus, (^kpi k-berries). 
Quantities of driftwood float about the shores. The jasper 
occurred here again. This island may be about four or five 
miles long, and, at low water, is connected with other islands 
to the north. By the help of our glasses we could perceive 
woods on the continent, and the Esquimaux thought they 
discovered the smoke of Indian fires. They are much afraid 
of meeting these people. Bloody encounters occasionally 
occur between them. The Indians come from the interior, 
and from Hudson's Bay, and are frequently seen near the 
two principal rivers, George river and South river, towards 
which we were going; but we met with none. Brother 
Kohlmeister rather wished for it, as some of them are said to 
understand English, and he was desirous of endeavouring 
to bring them to a more peaceable disposition towards the 
Esquimaux, by friendly conversation. 

22d. We found the skin-boat a great hindrance to us« 
Without being obliged to take that in tow, we might have 
kept at a greater distance from the shore, which would have 
enabled us to get on more rapidly, and with greater safety. 
On shore Ave found a great quantity of cubical pyrites in a 
grey matrix. The Esquimaux are attentive to this mineral, 
and have before now brought it to Okkak. 

23d. We proceeded at 6 A. M. and steered for the island 
of Saeglorsoak. The islands called Nocharutsit lay on our 
left. They are a group of numerous small islands, many of 
which are overflowed at high water, extending W. and E. 
towards the entrance of South river. Between these islands 
and Akpatok, tae sea is said to be clear of rocks, and the 
water of sufficient depth for any ship entering from Hudson's. 



68 

Straits, and bound to the Koksoak, or South river; but no 
ship durst, in our opinion, venture to approach the coast 
of Ungava within twenty or thirty miles. 

In the afternoon, the tide turning against us, and the wind 
unfavourable, we were obliged to come to an anchor among 
the islands. We had left the skin -boat behind, with Thuk- 
kekina, Uttakiyok's brother Annoray, and one of his wives, 
to whom he had given his baggage in charge. The Esqui- 
maux wives are very punctilious, the first always maintains 
the highest dignity, regulates the housekeeping, distributes 
the provisions, and directs everj^thing, as mistress of the 
family. 

Jonas went out in his kayak, and shot a seal. We saw 
many, and fired at them, but got none. Whitefish were 
likewise seen at a distance. Uttakiyok and David were out 
in their kayaks, and joined us in the evening loaded with 
geese. 

On tlie turn of the tide we proceeded, and at ten P. M . 
cast anchor among the Nocharutsits, under a pretty high 
island, about three or four miles in circumference. All our 
people remained on board during the night, which was calm 
and pleasant. 

24th. David roused us about five o'clock, by firing at a 
seal, which he killed. The women went on shore to cook 
it with some geese. When they returned, we all breakfasted 
on the contents of their pot. 

The Esquimaux want no books of cookery to manage 
their kitchen afTtUrs. The meat is boiled ^^ith the blood in 
it, and the addition of some water. When it is sufficiently 
done, that is, according the Ungava custom, when half warm, 
the women take it out of the pot, and serve it up on a piece 
of stone, if on shore, and on a piece of board, if at sea. Then 
the person, who has caught the seal or game, proclaims with 
great vociferation, that the men may come and sit down to 
cat. Such exertion of voice, however, seems hardly neces- 



69 

sary, as the Esquimaux are very acute at hearings when they 
are invited to dinner. When the men have done_, the women 
sit down, having taken good care, beforehand, that their 
share is secured. The Esquimaux customs never permit 
men and women to sit down together at a meal. 

It sometimes happens among the heathen Esquimaux, 
that several having had good success, one huntsman's-feast 
is hardly o^'cr, before another proclaims the invitation to 
his banquet. This is never suffered to pass unnoticed, while 
the power of cramming down another morsel remains. Thus 
they will continue eating, till they are scarcely able to 
breathe, and then lie down to sleep off the effects of then* 
gluttony. Indeed their excessive voraciousness on such 
occasions produces, especially after long fasting, all the 
S3^mptoms of drunkenness. They forget, imder its sensual 
influence, all moderation, and abandon themselves to the 
most disgusting abominations. 

In the afternoon we steered W, by N. (wind N. E.), for 
the cape of Kenierauyaky at the east side of the entrance of 
the Yixev Koksoak, (Sand river). Before we ari'ived at the 
cape, we left some islands to the South, the largest of which 
is again called KiIikei*tarsoak, Saeglorsoak, is a large flat 
island, about eight or ten miles long, and its neighbourhood 
very dangerous, on account of many sunken rocks. The 
continent hereabouts is well wooded, and Indians are said 
to be frequently seen in the interior. The mouth of the 
Koksoak is seven or eight English miles broad : its shores 
steep, but the rocks in general lovv^, and covered with moss. 
The Esquimaux say, that in the middle there is water 
enough for any large ship, though the tides prevent any near 
approach to the land. At sun-set we came to an anchor at 
the mouth of the river. 



7© 



CHAPTER XIL 

Sail up the river Koksoak, Transactions in that region. 
Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux, Address to theon. 
Their joy and eagerness to have Missionaries resident 
among them. Find a suitable situation for a settleme^ii. 
Description of the country, 

AUGUST 25 th. — This was the joyful day on which at last 
we saw our hopes realized, and the principal aim of our 
journey obtained. The sun rose beautiMly, and announced 
a delightful day. \\'e were obliged to wait till seven A. M. 
for the turn of the tide, before we could proceed up the 
riTer. The estuary of the Kohsoak lies, according to 
au observation taken, in 58° ^Q' N. latitude, nearly the 
same as Okkak. To the west the countiy is called by 
the Esquimaux Assokak, the coast turning again W. N. W. 
This river, therefore, seems to beat the most southern point 
of the coast, George's river entering the sea at 58° 52', con- 
sequently more North. 

The Koksoak appeared to us to be about as broad as the 
Thames at Gravesend, or the Elbe near Hamburg, and 
the whole river, with its various windings, much resembles 
the Thames for twenty-four miles upwards. Its depth is 
sufficient for a ship thus far. Its general direction is frojii 
the South, ^^'e reckoned it to be about 600 or 700 miles 
from Okkak, and Killinek or Cape Chudleigh half way. 

Having proceeded five or six miles up the river, we came 
to a small island, which we left on our right. 

We saw several sacks of blubber, a sledge, and some other 



71 

articles lying on the beach, and Jonathan and Brother 
Kmoch went in the small boat to discover the proprietors, 
but found nobody there, to guard the goods. 

A little farther on is a point of land running out into 
nearly the middle of the stream. The current sets very 
r^idly round it, so as to form a dangerous eddy. Our boat 
was seized, and twice turned quite round ; the small boat 
was wiiirled about several times, as she pushed through it. 
The women on board our boat, on seeing this, set up a loud 
scream ; but Jonathan only laughed at their fears, and we 
afterwards saw kayaks passing the eddy in perfect safety. 

Having doubled the point, we perceived several kayaks 
approaching. The people in them shouted aloud for joy, 
exclaiming, Innuit, J)muit ! Men, Men 1 Some guns were 
also fired in the boat, which were soon answered by some 
fowling-pieces from the shore. 

We now saw three tents pitched on the bank, and hoisted 
our colours, when we were incessantly hailed by the inhabi- 
tants. There was a general cr}^ of Kuv^, Kiw^, Kahlunaety 
Kablunaet! Europeans, Europeans ! from the men in the 
kayaks, who, by all manner of gesticulations, expressed their 
pleasure, brandishing their pautiks, (oars), and shouting 
continually as they rowed alongside the boat. The women 
on shore answered with loud acclamations. 

About one P. M. we cast anchor close to their habitations. 
Fourteen families were here, among whom were some from 
a distant district, called Eivektok, These had pitched their 
tents farther up the river, Arnauyak was with them, a 
man, with whom Brother Kohlmeister had become acquaint- 
ed some years ago, exceedingly regretted, that he had but 
a few days ago left the place, to hunt reindeer on George^s 
river. The children expressed their joy by running to and 
fro on the strand, like wild creatures. 

At first, the people in the tents appeared rather shy, but 
after accepting of some trifling presents, they became quite 



72 

€ornmunicative^ and gave us some of their toys in exchange ; 
then walking round us, sun-eyed us narrowly, as if we were 
a new species of animals. INIost of them had never before 
seen an European. Uttakiyok's brother had joined them, 
and already informed them of our arrival, without which 
they would probably have been yet more alarmed at seeing 
strangers, and hearing the report of fire-arms. 

They now invited all our people to dine with them, and 
Laving heard that Brother Kohlmeister would like to taste 
the flesh of a whitefish, a kettle was immediately placed on 
the fire, and a large piece put in to boil. Brother Kmoch 
meanwhile cooked a savouiy soup of birds, and reindeer- 
flesh, more fit for an European stomach. While dinner was 
preparing. Brother Kohlmeister took a walk up the bank of 
the river, and across some hills. As the families belonging 
to Eivektok had their summer dwelling in that neighbour- 
hood, the Esquimaux, on perceiving that he had walked in 
that direction, and fearing that the Eivektok people, seeing 
him alone, might mistake him for an Indian, and shoot at 
him, dispatched two men to bring him back. They missed 
him, and he returned before them. He found our people 
veiy pleasantly conversing with the heathen concerning the 
aim of our journey, and the way of salvation. Even Utta- 
kiyok was thus engaged, explaining, as well as he could, the 
cause of our living in Labrador : he exclaimed, " let us, 
my friends, all be converted to Jesus." He was heard with 
peculiar attention, being considered as a captain among 
them. In the evening we sang hymns in Jonathan's tent. 
The people all came and listened with much seriousness. 

2Gth. To-day the Eivektok families came in a skin-boat 
down the river, to see us. They were full of astonishment, 
but soon took courage, and handled us, to discover whether 
we were made of the same materials with themselves. An 
old man, Netsiak, addressed Brother Kohlmeister : "Are you 
" Benjamin? I have never seen you with my eyes, but at 



73 

'^ Eivektok have heard your name often mentioned," He 
seemed to be a sensible man, and a captain among his 
tribe. 

We could not help remarking the difference between these 
Esquimaux and their countrj-men living on the same coasts 
with our settlements. The former are very poor^ and mise- 
rably equipped, whereas the latter, by their intercourse with 
us and other Europeans, have acquired many conveniences, 
and are, by barter, well provided with what they want. 

27th. We proceeded farther up the river, accompanied by 
most of the men, and some women, in their skin-boat, and 
arrived at a bay, which, by the winding of the stream, ap- 
pears like a lake, surrounded on all sides with gently rising 
grounds, well planted with wood of moderate size, chiefly 
larch. Behind the wood are some low hills. We named 
this place Unity's Bay. There is here a very good place for 
a Missionaiy settlement. A fine slope extends for about half 
an English mile, bounded on each extremity by a hill, on 
each of which we erected high signals . The land is even and 
dry. Juniper, currants, and other ben-ies, grow here in 
abundance, and rivulets run out of the wood at a distance of 
a few hundred paces from each other. The slope faces the 
S. S. E. and we named it Pilgerruh, (Pilgrim's rest). Bro- 
ther Kohlmeister made drawings of the situation. 

From our first arrival we had improved every opportunity 
of making the Esquimaux acquainted with the chief aim of our 
visit to this countiy, and addressed them both singly and in 
companies . Nor were Jonathan and Jonas remiss in convers- 
ing with them about the concerns of their immortal souls, de- 
claring to them the love of God our Sa^dour towards them. 
We once met with Sybilla, Jonathan's wife, seated with a 
company of w^omen, under the shadow^ of a skin-boat, set on 
edge, exhorting them, with great simplicity and fervour^ to 
hear and believe the gospel. 

28th. Brother Kmoch landed with Jonathan, and spent 



74 

isome hours in examining the banks of the river. On as- 
cending the first eminence^ the view of the interior is in 
general flat, with a few low hills, and ponds in some places, 
full of wild geese. The timber in the woods hereabouts is 
not large: we found none fit for masts. The largest trees 
were not more than eight inches in diameter, and fifteen or 
twenty feet high. They are chiefly larch and pines. In 
some places we found them burnt or withered, and were 
informed by the Esquimaux, that it was the effect of the 
Indian's fires. Indeed we saw several places where the In- 
dians had put up huts, and left sufficient vestiges of their 
abode. BeiTies grow everywhere, and between the river 
and the wood, the plain is chiefly covered with willows, 
high grass growing between them, but these and the various 
shrubs are so low, that a man can easily look over them. 
In all directions we saw the tracks of reindeer, and there 
is eveiy appearance of its being a place much frequented 
by these animals. Deeper in the wood, we found great 
quantities of sorrel and other European plants. The woods 
appeared very thick, and extended as far as the eye could 
reach, often coming down to the edge of the river. The 
Esquimaux say, that higher up, large timber is found. On 
our return to the skin-boat we found ourselves pretty much 
fatigued, and ready to partake of a supper, cooked by the 
Esquimaux, consisting of ship's biscuit, dried fish, and raw 
whitefish blubber. The Esquimaux prevailed upon Brother 
Kmoch to taste the latter, and he reported, that having once 
overcome his aversion to it, its taste was sweet, like the 
kernel of a nut, but heated his stomach like a hot posset. 

29th. Changeable and rainy weather prevented us from 
going out much. 

30th. Our people, and with them the strange Esquimaux, 
met for public worship. Brother Kohlmeister once more 
explained to them our intention in coming thus far to visit 
them. He addressed them to the following effect: " That 



75 

^* already, many years ago, many excellent people in the 
'^ country beyond the great ocean, had thought of them 
*^ with much love, and felt desirous that the inhabitants of 
*^ the Ungava countiy also might hear the comfortable 
^^ word of God, and be instmcted in it : for they had heard 
^^ that the Esquimaux here were heathen, who, through 
^^ ignorance, served the Torngak, or evil spirit, and were 
" led by him into the commission of all manner of sin, that 
" they might hereafter be lost, and go to the place of eternal 
^^ darkness and miseiy. Out of love, therefore," continued 
the missionary, " they have sent us to you, and out of love 
^^ we have come to you, to tell you how you may be saved, 
^^ and become happy, peaceful cliildren of God, being dcli- 
^^ vered from the fear of death, which is now upon you all> 
'^ and have the prospect of everlasting joy and peace here- 
^^ after, even by receiving the gospel, and turning to Jesus, 
^^ who is the only Creator and Saviour of all men* He 
^^ died for your sins, for our sins, and for the sins of all 
'^ mankind, as our surety, suffering the punishment we 
^^ deserv^ed, that you, by receiving Him, and believing on 
*^ Him, might be saved, and not go to the place of eternal 
^^ darkness and pain, but to the place of bliss and eternal 
^^ rest. You cannot yet understand these comfortable 
^^ words of the gospel, but if it is your sincere wish to know 
^^ the truth of them, Jesus will open your ears and hearts, 
^^ to hear and understand them. These my companions 
*^ were as ignorant as you, but they now thank God, that 
'^ they know Jesus as their Saviour, and are assured 
^^ that through His death they shall inherit everlasting 
« life." 

During this address all were silent and very attentive. 
Some exclaimed: ^^ O we desire to hear more about itP* 
Old Netsiak, from Eivektok, said : ^^ I am indeed old, but if 
*^ you come to live here, I will certainly remove hither also, 
^^ and live with vou and be converted." 



76 

When we put the question to them^ whether they were 
willing, that we should come and dwell with them, and in- 
struct them, they all answered with a loud and cheerful 
voice. ^' Kaititse toky Kaititse tokl " O do come soon, and 
*' live with us, we will all gladly be converted, and live 
^^ with you." Jonathan and Jonas also bore ample testi- 
mony to the truth of what we had spoken, and their words 
seemed to make a deep impression on all their countrymen. 
Uttakiyok was above others eager to express his wish that 
we might soon make a settlement in the Ungava country. 
Five of the fourteen families who mean to reside here next 
winter, are from Eivektok. 

Farther inland, the river Koksoak widens considerably, 
but consequently grows more shallow. The country is 
pleasant, with wood, grassy plains, and gentle hills. 

31st. Having finished all our observations here, we 
dropped down the stream to the place, where we had disco- 
vered the first tents. 

In descending, as well as ascending the river, we saw a 
great number of whitefish, and many seals. Reindeer are 
numerous on both shores, both in summer and winter. All 
tlie Esquimaux declared, that this was the best provision- 
place in the whole country, and they consequently flock to 
it from all parts every summer, frequently protracting their 
stay during the winter. The greater number of those we. 
found here, purposed spending next winter in this neigh- 
bourhood. The Esquimaux are prevented from making 
this place their constant residence by their fear of the land- 
Indians, which cause them to quit it sooner than they 
otherwise would wish to do. 

We spared no pains to collect all the information we 
possibly could obtain, on cveiy subject relating to this 
situation, both as to itself, and in reference to the possibility 
of approaching it with a ship, as likewise respecting tlie 
inhabitants of the Ungava country in general. It appeared 



77 

evident, that the place above described is the most eligible 
for forming a missionary-settlement. 

We found it unnecessaiy to proceed to the Westward, by 
tl^ account given us by our worthy conductor Uttakiyok, 
whose information hitherto we had always found correct, 
and confidently to be relied on. 

He reported: 1. That farther West no wood is to be 
found on the coast. 

2. That besides the two rivers Kangertlualuksoak and 
Koksoak, they knew of no place w^liere a ship might with 
safety approach the land. 

3. That at this time we should probably find no inha- 
bitants, as they had all gone into the interior to hunt 
reindeer. 

W^e therefore now considered the business committed to 
us to be accomplished, and determined to return to Okkak, 
thankful to God our Saviour for the many proofs of His 
favour and protection, experienced in the execution of our 
commission. 



CHAPTER XIIL 

Return to Okkak, 

SEPTEMBER 1st At ten A. M. we fell down the river 

with the ebb-tide, and about noon anchored near its mouth. 
The Esquimaux showed great attachment to us, and could 
hardly resolve to take a final leave. They called after us, 
*^ Come soon again, we shall always be wishing for you.'* 
Several of them, and among them our friend Uttakiyok, 
followed us in their kayaks to the mouth of the river. 

We erected here, on the promontory Kernerauyak, a board 
with an inscription similar to that put up at George river, 
but with the day of our departure inserted, viz. Sept. 1st, 



IS 

instead of tlic day of our arrival^, Aug. 7th. The same 
solemnities took place as on the former occasion. Our 
faithful pilot Uttakiyok^ who had rendered us such impor- 
tant and essential services^ now took leave of us, as he 
intends to spend the winter in this neighbourhood. He 
repeated his assurance, that if we settled here, he would be 
the first to join us, and to turn with his whole heart to God. 
Not willing to be any longer incumbered with the skin-boat, 
we added it to other useful articles given to Uttakiyok, as a 
reward for his faithful attention to us. He was very highly 
gratified, and thankful for this species of remuneration. 

2d. Left the Koksoak, called by us. South river, and 
steered to the N. of Kernermiyak and Kikkertorsoak, In 
the evening we cast anchor in an open road, among the 
Kachorutsit islands, with fine weather. 

3d. Set sail at sun-rise, wind and tide in our favour, and 
proceeded rapidly. About noon, however, a fog came on, 
which obliged us to come to an anchor at Pitsiolak. When 
it cleared up, we proceeded, steering between Allukpalak 
and Nipkotoky and cast anchor in the open sea, near Ker- 
nertuf, where, on our first arrival, we encountered such 
a tremendous storm. The night proved quite calm and 
fair. 

4th. A gentle breeze brought us pleasantly as far as the 
island Naiiyefy at the mouth of the Kangertlualuksoak, 
where we cast anchor, having performed the same voyage 
in three days, which took us twelve on our former passage. 
The distance may be about 100 English miles. 

5 th, Landed, and erected a species of landmark, on the 
highest point of Nmiyet, as a ship entering the river must 
keep near this island, the shore on the other side being very 
foul. Contrary winds now obliged us to enter the bay, and 
cast anchor in the same place where we had lain on the 9t}i 
of August. 

6ch. Storm and rain prevented our proceeding. The Es- 



79 

quimaux went on sliore, and pitclied tlieir tent. Of hit 
they generally spent the night on board the boat. 

7th. Wind at W. but a heavy swell from the sea prevented 
our sailing. Our men went out to hunt^ and Paul returned 
in the evening ^vith a deer. 

8th. Snow had fallen during the night, and the whole 
country had the appearance of the middle of winter. We 
dropped down with the ebb-tide, but were obliged to anchor 
again near the entrance of the bay. \A^hen the tide turned 
we proceeded, and, leaving Kikkertorsoak to the right, made 
for cape Kattaktok^ where we spent the night at anchor 
among some low islands. The night was clear^ and a comet 
appeared N. by W. 

9th. Mind favourable and strong. We set sail at sun- 
rise, and steered for Uibvaksoak, and so rapidly did our 
boat make way through the waves, that we arri^-ed there al- 
ready at four in the afternoon, passing swiftly by the Dra- 
gon's dwelling, (Torngets). A thunder-storm was ap- 
proaching. The wind, which felt quite warm, was in out 
rear, and violent giists assailed us now and then, which made 
us shorten sail; yet the boat seemed to fly from island to 
island. We were unable to find a safe anchorage till 8 P. M. 
when it was already dark. We had sailed, in fourteen hours, 
about 100 English miles, and were all completely wet with 
the spj-ay of the sea and frequent showers. Our Esquimaux 
were obliged, in this condition^ to lie down either on deck 
or on shore. 

10th. Reached Omanek, about 40 or 50 miles sail. 

11 th. Wind contrary, with much rain. We were con- 
fined to our narrow cabin, and shut in all day, with a lamp 
burning. 

12th. Clear weather: set sail at noon. In the afternoon 
we were saluted by some shots from Killmek Esquimaux, 
who were halting not far from the Ikkerasak, or straits, at 
the entrance of which we cast anchor about 7 P. M. 



80 

13th. Tliough we \^ished to have same conversation with 
the KiUinek people, as they cannot often come to Okkak, 
yet we thought it adviseable to lose no time, and, with the 
ebb-tide, passed through the IkkerasaJc in perfect safety. 
When, about 1 P. M. the tide turned, we ran into a cove on 
the south side, and at 5 P. M. anchored in the lagoon above 
described, (See page 43), the entrance to which will only 
admit a boat. 

14th. Reached Oppernavik, where we first met Uttakiyok. 

15th. Set sail with a gentle breeze, which permitted us to 
have our Sunday's service on deck. The wind, however, 
soon turning against us, we were compelled to return to our 
former anchorage. 

16th and 17th. We were unpleasantly detained by wind 
and rain, and on the latter day much snow fell. 

18th. Reached Kikkertarsoak about 1 P. M. Our men 
went out in their kayaks, and returned in the evening with 
three seals. The .night was fair, with beautiful appearances 
of tlie Aurora Borealis. 

19th. The morning was calm: some indications of ap- 
proaching storm made us anxious to proceed. We set out 
early ; but a fog coming on, we came again to an anchor off 
a barren island. After staying here two hours, hoping for a 
favourable change, Jonathan proposed to proceed, and 
steered S. W. not knowing rightly where we were. On this 
occasion, we could not help admiring the composure of the 
Esquimaux. But having last night made a hearty meal of 
the provisions they had acquired, they seemed to take things 
easy, and thought it would all be right in the end. So it 
turned out; for by and by we saw the continent, and kept 
along shore, till we got to the promontory Kakkeviaky 
where, on our passage, we had nearly suffered shipwreck. 
(See page 38). Here we cast anchor in a wide shallow bay, 
and spent a quiet night. 

20th. The fog had dispersed, and the wind was favour- 



81 

able, though shifting from W. toN. Wv N. and N. E. . At 7 
P. M. we reached Kumaktarvik^ and found good anchorage 
close to the Esquimaux winter-houses; but we were disap- 
pointed by finding them empty/ the people being probably 
out on the reindeer-hunt. There were four houses stand- 
ing, apparently not old, and the traces of eight others, situ- 
ated on a low point of land, well covered with grass, and 
surrounded by high mountains. 

21st. Wind N. W. set sail by break of day; reached iV^ew- 
noktok about noon, and steered across Sangmiyok bay, for 
the northern promontoiy in Nachvak bay. Sangmiyok bay 
is full of breakers, and the sea running pretty high, they 
appeared very distinctly. The wind dying away in the af- 
ternoon, we got no farther than the steep rocks under which 
we had spent the night of July the ISth, where we came to 
an anchor. A hea\y swell from the sea, and violent gusts 
of wind assailing us in all directions from the mountains, 
gave us much uneasiness ; but, by the protecting care of 
God, we suffered no harm. 

22d. It blew hard from the N. W. and prevented our run- 
ning into Nachvak bay. Our situation being highly dangerous, 
and the wind favouring our proceeding, we determined to 
pass by Nachvak. But having sailed across the bay, our 
captain found it impossible to proceed, and thought proper 
to come to an anchor. The truth was, that he had left some 
articles here in a cove, which he wished to secure. We 
therefore went on shore, and found many fragments of the 
bones of whales, whence we inferred that wiiales are some- 
times cast on shore in this place. 

23d. A heavy storm came on from the N. W. To-day 
we caught the first cod-fish, which proved a very acceptable 
change of diet for us and our people. 

24th. The morning was calm. Wind E. left the cove 
and steered for Nachvak, and came, accidmtaUy, to the ver^^ 
place where Jonathan's goods were deposited. Not perceiv- 

M 



62 

ing any Esquimaux on shore, Jonathan and Thukkekina 
went up the bay in their kayaks in search of them. Mean- 
while tve landed, and on the declivity of a hill found a great 
quantity of green soapstone. In the evening Jonathan and 
Thukkekina returned with ten other Equimaux, who rejoiced 
to see us again. 

25th. Brother Kohlmeister was engaged all day with the 
Esquimaux, Brother Kmoch went up the mountain, and 
brought some fine specimens of steatite. 

26th. Wind strong at N. W. we set sail; but the wind 
failing, we could not reach Saeglek, as proposed, but spent 
the night in the open sea. It passed, however, without any 
unpleasant occurrences. 

27th. The want of wind prevented our getting to-day as 
far as the Saeglek islands. Having passed through a veiy 
narrow Ikkerasak, with hardly sulFicient depth of water for 
so large a boat, we cast anchor near our former station at 
Kikker tar soak, 

28th. Wind cold and changeable, and towards evening 
stormy. 

29th. Set sail about 6 A. M. with a strong wind at W. and 
in the evening had reached the Kangertluksoak islands. 

30th. It blew hard, with snow, and we were obliged to 
spend the day shut up in our small cabin by lamp-light. 
The land was covered with snow. We were detained here 
very unpleasantly for three days, by the violence of the wind 
and weather. 

October 3d. We steered for the promontory oiKamnuT/oky 
but the wind dying away, and at length turning to the 
South, we could not gain any safe harbour, and were obliged 
to tack about all night in the open sea. The weather, how- 
ever, was mild, and we had the advantage of moon-light. 

4th. At 7 A. M. we succeeded in passing the Northern 
Ikkerasak near cape Mug ford with the tide, and the wind 
becoming fair, soon brought us among the Okkak islands. 



83 

About noon we doubled cape Uivak, and perceived Esqui- 
maux on shore, who ran up the hills, shouted for joy, and 
gave us by signs to understand, that the ship (the brig 
Jemima, sent annually with provisions to the settlements) 
was still at Okkak. 

We cannot describe the inexpressible pleasure and grati- 
tude to God our Saviour which we felt, when we again 
beheld the neighbourhood of Okkak, after an absence of 
fifteen weeks. As soon as the captain descried our boat 
approaching, he hoisted his colours, and fired some guns 
to give notice of our arrival. As we were obliged to tack, to 
gain the entrance to the harbour, he came to meet us in the 
ship's boat, and about one o'clock we landed. The Mis- 
sionaries and the Esquimaux met us with tears of joy and 
thankfulness, when we all joined in praise to God, who had 
so wonderfully kept His protecting hand over us during this 
perilous voyage, and granted us to return home in safety. 

Our voyage lasted from the 24th of June to the 4th of 
October, and we calculated it to be a distance of from 1 200 
to 1300 miles. 

Benjamin Gottlieb Kohlmeister. 

George Kmoch. 



"W. M^Dowally Printer, Pemberton Row, 
London, 



62 



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